i was told i needed to get mine replaced,.. what are some of the things my car will do if i need to get this replaced, also about how much are these and where could i find one, is labor gonna be bad or is it something i can probably do mysef, thanks

 

I had mine replaced while my car was still under warranty and it was expensive, then again the parts came from the dealer and they did the work. It was probably close to $1000 if I remember right.

 

 

I just got mine replaced. The part is around $135.00 plus $75.00 core charge. I got mine from Dal.

 

i think it was OBE-1 95Z who told me Cardone makes remanfactured racks, he said his has worked great so far...

i think around 140$ , im not sure about a core charge. go to www.cardone.com to check them out, give them a call while your at it. still debating if i should go with the Cardone one or just a new GM, cause mine needs replacing also

 

so you paid 210$ at first, then got your 75$ back when u sent your old one back

 

is labor alot? what are some signs if its going bad?

 

also what yrs do u think will work for a 96 just incase i can find a cheap used one

 

not sure about labor cause me and my dad will replace it... im pretty sure 93-97 should all be the same, but dont quote me on that.
signs of it going out would be the bearing inside getting worn and resulting in loose steering, like some of the threads you have started. wheel moves left to right a few inches without any movement on the road. could be the rag joint from what i read, but most likly the rack it self.

 

I got my Cardone steering rack for my 95 Z28 for $138 shipped; bought it though an internet parts shop (do a Google search). It came with inner tie rods and boots. Looks identical to the stock GM unit. There was a $125 core change which is refunded once they receive your original rack. Straight forward to replace. Probably a good time to replace your outer tie rods if it's a higher mileage vehicle.

 

it has 93k on it..i gues ill start doin some shoppin, hopefully this is the prob

 

Do not pay to have it replaced. An LS1 is a PITA because the engine is in the way, but on LT1's, it is a cakewalk. Pop the tierods off the spindles, undo the two fluid lines, and 2 bolts that hold the rack to the subframe. Hour job, dont waste money paying a mechanic.

 

Actually, there were two pieces I replaced. The pinion and rack assembly, and the coupler shaft that slides in. Both with shipping were $350.00 including the core charge.. Mine just got worn out, and the coupler shaft was about to pop out of place. Too dangerous, and it will suck if that would've actually happened while driving.
Yes, the core charge will be reimbursed when you ship the old one back, in the same box/package they sent you the replacement one in.
Just need to call Dal or whoever you've got it from to make shipping arrangements.
-Goose.

 

On my 96, my rag joint went bad, but before I figured that out I messed with the preload bearing. Bad idea, after I did that my rack was all messed up and would make loud cracking noises every time I turned the wheel.

Anyway, I got my new rack at Auto Zone, can't remember the price but it wasn't too expensive. If you're just replacing the rack, it's not too bad and you should be able to do it yourself. Getting the hydraulic lines off was kind of a pain, the part of the lines that unscrews is real soft and stripped easily. Get some of those box-end wrenches (or whatever they're called), made it a lot easier the second time.

You'll need to get it aligned after you're done also.

Patrick