The power steering was working perfect without any problems. However, after breaking the system open (removed and reinstalled the rack and pinion) while installing a new K-Member, now there is a problem with the power steering (as I turn the wheel hard spots then easy spots???).

I’m thinking air in the system, but not sure what to do about it. It must have something to do with me opening the system, and not something failed.

During the rack and pinion removal, I had the lines to the pump removed and a lot of power steering fluid ran out of the system. So, prior to starting the engine, I filled-up the pump reservoir and the reservoir is full after testing it. I’ve cycled the system several times completely left to right (100 times maybe), and that seemed to help some but the system still has a problem.

Any ideas what the problem is and how to fix it?

WD

 

Jack the front wheels off the ground and hold it locked out one way and hold for a sec. then do the other side then start it up and do it. It should bleed it out.

Did you take the lines off the pump? Some pumps have an orifice in them that can **** sideways sometimes....I don't remember if that one has it or not.

But do it a few times with the wheels in the air it will bleed out. It has air in it...make sure the belt is clean too, no spills or anything that could make it slip etc.

 

I've done what you recommended about fifty times and it didn't help!

I removed the lines at the rack and pinion, not at the pump.

WD

 

Have you tried actually driving the car yet?

I just put a new re-man'd steering rack into my car last week, and it was acting the same way at first ... the pump was also quite "whiney" for awhile (I didn't over-fill it at first ... just topped up as necessary, although I think it may have run slightly low on initial start-up?) ... but I worked the wheel back and forth several times in the first few minutes of running the engine (with the wheels in the air). It felt "not bad", although the pump, like I said, still sounded "slightly" whiney, and there would be the odd, momentary "pulse" when turning the wheel. I took the car for a quick drive around the block though, and by the time I got back home, it seemed to have quieted down, and the FEEL was good. That was last Tuesday, and on Saturday, I had the car on the race track (road course) and the steering was working 100% .

SO, maybe it needs the additional pressure of weight on it to really squeeze out all the air?! I have no idea!! I'd say try it out, and see how it actually drives/feels.

 

It's fixed!

I had it up on jack-stands three times yesterday, going back-and-forth from full left to full right and drove it around the neighborhood two different times and nothing worked. So, I just gave-up on it yesterday.

Today I start it up and the power steering is working perfect!

I guess it had a lot of air in the system and letting it set over night was what it needed. I also talked with a friend who runs an alignment shop. He said, "what happened to me was pretty common when you replace power steering system components."

Hopefully this thread will help someone in the future with this problem. Just go have a cold beer (maybe more than one), then get-up in the moring and it will be fixed.

WD

 

The fluid was probly foamed up with air bubbles. Once it settles the air got out of it.

Glad you got it fixed.

 

I think that's probably exactly the problem! Especially in my case since I ran it briefly a little low, it probably cavitated the pump. After I took the car around the block, I had it shut off for a little bit, then I took it back out again ... it was at that point that mine seemed to be 100% .

 

I filled the pump reservoir before I started mine, so I think my problem was the air in the high and low pressure lines from the pump to the rack and pinion.

All it needed (had I known) was to just let it sit over night and I was good to go!

Also, I've got my new tube K-Member and A-Arms installed now and had the front-end aligned today. I have a two-day bracket race this weekend, so I'm ready to go now.

I went with the AJE items. Additionally, I lowered the rear ride-height and adjusted the front QA1 coil-overs down slightly. I'm hoping to improve my consistenancy on 60ft times with better weight transfer (best 1.48).

WD

 

I little advice. tack weld the washer on the a ram bolts to the k-member. Mine slide around and I know it does it b/c I marked it and see where they moved. Now I need to align it again and weld them. Got in a rush and didn't do it.

I was told tyo try start washers on it to lock it in place and that does not work either. Madman says weld them....I feel its the onlt safe way....

Interested in seeing how much you pick up

 

Are you also running the AJE K-Member? I upgraded my bolts and flat washers to grade 8, the AJE came with grade 5 bolts and plain zink flat washers (which can crush under torque).

WD

 

I am using the spohn, I got a bolt kit from him with grad 8 but I aligned the car twice and when the front tires come off the ground the bolts slide in the slots. We tried several things and asked a few chassis people and they all said to just tack weld the washers so they won't slide.