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PLEASE HELP security light blinking

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Old Jul 19, 2007 | 02:15 PM
  #16  
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well thanks, my man im gonna try that and see whats up,hmm i went under the dash and unplugged the vats connector and its still did nothing. i think its either the module it self or the the wires r broke in the sterring wheel. i mean 1 days its running and stuff and next the car does nothing, so i been stuck on stupid and dunno. i mean i work on all my cars and replace everything on my own and when this security light came on then its called stuck on stuipd lol. so im gonna try the lock replacement first then not that the car goes to gm then.
Old Jul 19, 2007 | 02:46 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by blk96z07
well thanks, my man im gonna try that and see whats up,hmm i went under the dash and unplugged the vats connector and its still did nothing. i think its either the module it self or the the wires r broke in the sterring wheel. i mean 1 days its running and stuff and next the car does nothing, so i been stuck on stupid and dunno. i mean i work on all my cars and replace everything on my own and when this security light came on then its called stuck on stuipd lol. so im gonna try the lock replacement first then not that the car goes to gm then.
If the system is having trouble reading the key, unplugging the connector under the steering column is not going to help anything at all. All that will do is make it impossible for it to ever read the key-same problem. If reading the key is the problem, you have to provide a similar resistance to the system to bypass that function. It's all lined out in the info on my site that links were provided to earlier.
Old Jul 19, 2007 | 05:54 PM
  #18  
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no my problem is not reading the ket cause i took the key to gm and they checked it and they told the keys is fine. they told me it can either be the vats module or the relay but i dunno where they are.
Old Jul 19, 2007 | 06:44 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by blk96z07
no my problem is not reading the ket cause i took the key to gm and they checked it and they told the keys is fine. they told me it can either be the vats module or the relay but i dunno where they are.
You had them test the key, but that is normally not the problem. It's the wiring from the key cylinder to that connector you unhooked under the steering wheel, that is often the issue. So, you have not proved that portion is any good. Again, all this testing info is on my website, if you choose to look at it.
Old Jul 19, 2007 | 07:04 PM
  #20  
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yes i did look at al ya website and which is a good website plus i used some of ya info on other things a bout my car its very good info. on the wiring in the wheel i dunoo nuffin about it. i read over all ya bypass infoa nd stuff but still dont understand it? this is my problem i stick my key in the key switch ok. and when i turn the switch to start the car the security light come on and flashs alot. and when i read ya site its says, If the sensing contact circuit is open or shorted (cannot read the key) or a defective key is used at the time the ignition it turned ON, the SECURITY lamp will flash at a rate of once per second and the engine will not start. No three minute lockout will begin. this is what my car is doing right now can u tell me what this means?
Old Jul 19, 2007 | 08:26 PM
  #21  
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Mine did the exact same thing, exactally, Im sticking with broken wire on the key tumber. The light would blink and nothing would happen. The security timing and fuses and all those things did nothing. Like I say, chevy apparently fixes the tumbers all the time. I would tear it apart to see if that is the problem. Not hard to do. Oh and by unhooking the VATS, you now have no connection to the computer and nothing will happen at all like shoebox said.
Old Jul 19, 2007 | 08:44 PM
  #22  
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well im gonna check it and see,the key tumber is the lock cylinder it self or its a seprate piece?
Old Jul 19, 2007 | 10:17 PM
  #23  
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If you cannot understand what is going on, just do the resistor bypass and see if that fixes it. You seem to have issues with troubleshooting.
Old Jul 20, 2007 | 04:13 AM
  #24  
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The key tumber is the lock cylinder. Different names for it.
Old Jul 22, 2007 | 02:23 PM
  #25  
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today i went to did the ohms reading on my key and its reading 1165 on the muiltmeter and when i unplugged the conector under the dash and then the key in and when i tryed reading the plugged and i got nothing from the connector. then i unplugged the connector and then the key still got nothing so what do yall think is it the key cyl or what? im gonna go to radio shack and by a restoir and im try that and se what up. btw i looked on the shoebox site 1165 is key pellet number 5 is that right?
Old Jul 22, 2007 | 09:09 PM
  #26  
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Number 5 seems right. So what resistor would you put in place in this case? 1130 ohm / gold?
You can try this but if your key was read and functioning properly I am willing to bet its a broken wire haha All you need if you decide to pull the steering is a screw driver, socket, ratchet, spring clip pliers and a steering wheel puller. Quite cheap and easy to do.
Old Jul 22, 2007 | 11:30 PM
  #27  
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when i went to radio shack i bought 1.5 ohms and a 5.6 ohms and thats what they gave me and i came home plugged the resistor in and did nothing but i didnt solder the resistor in . i just put it in the plug and when i did this the security light went from flashing to now staying lit so dunno. i think its the key tumbler for sure so its now on to changing it lol.when u buy a new switch from autozone or somewhere is it gonna be a key with a pellet in it?
Old Jul 23, 2007 | 07:31 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by blk96z07
when i went to radio shack i bought 1.5 ohms and a 5.6 ohms and thats what they gave me and i came home plugged the resistor in and did nothing but i didnt solder the resistor in . i just put it in the plug and when i did this the security light went from flashing to now staying lit so dunno. i think its the key tumbler for sure so its now on to changing it lol.when u buy a new switch from autozone or somewhere is it gonna be a key with a pellet in it?
You did not buy the right resistor(s) if your key reading was 1165. You will need some that in combination will be in the range of 1085-1195. Probably a 1k ohm and a 150 ohm. That would add up to 1150 and be within range. Get gold tolerance, if they have them. Make sure you attach them to the correct side of the plug you disconnected, not the side going toward the key cylinder.
Old Jul 24, 2007 | 09:55 PM
  #29  
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ok im go get thos the weekend.put the resistors on the vats side right?
Old Jul 24, 2007 | 10:54 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by blk96z07
ok im go get thos the weekend.put the resistors on the vats side right?
Naturally.



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