Z95m6

I finally got around to charging my A/C system after my motor swap and the damn A/C doesn't work. The compressor doesn't cycle. I had some trouble getting all the refridgerent sucked in but i thought it all went in (long story). Is it all possible for the car to be low enough on refridgerent to not engage the clutch on the A/C but also not throw any codes? I checked on my laptop and i don't have any codes now. If not i'm stumped i have no codes, so what can the problem be?

GreenDemon

So the compressor isn't working?

How much refrigerant did you put in?

flatlander757

The problem is you don't know what you're doing. The AC system is one thing I would never attempt myself. Take it to a technician.

Off the top of my head I'd say there's too much in it.

Z95m6

Well, the thing is we have a professional A/C filling machine and i have a laptop so i have everything needed. I even have the book jack ***. I followed the manual to a T and when i was filling it all but the last .50 lbs went into the system. It said to start the car so i did, and it would suck the rest into the system. Well i forgot i didn't hook up the evap plug underneathe the dash so the compressor couldnt come on and yet the machine said it still put the last .50 lbs in but i don't know how that could be possible if the clutch never engaged to suck it in. I now have the Evap plug in hooked back up and it still doesn't work. I'm back up at college now and won't have access to the machine until i come home again next weekend so i'm trying to trouble shoot it right now. Thats why i'm asking is it possible for the system to be low on refridgerent and not set a code.

Z95m6

Yeah the compressor clutch isn't engaging.
We have a professional Machine (its not just a tube and a valve that goes on a can) at our family business for our trucks, and the book it came with said a camaro should take about 32 oz. The book also said these are estimates and aren't exact, which really makes no sense. The last time i refilled it after a cam swap i put the 32 oz in and the car was cool but not that cool about 50 degrees in the heat of summer. So i think i upped it to about 2.25 and it dropped down to about 45 degrees. This time i started off with the 2.25lbs but as i said i'm not sure all of it went in.

flatlander757

LOL easy there!

Reread your first thread... I just figured you used one of those cans from autozone to do it yourself. LOL.

I know on some cars it may take a little while before the light comes on again.

So now the clutch isn't engaging at all?
If so, my Haynes manual says you can check if the compressor is good by puilling the low-pressure cycling switch plug from the evaporator inlet line and attach a jumper wire across the terminals. This will make the compressor stay on. If it doesn't come on, then I'd say you have a bad compressor.

GreenDemon

Does your charger have gauges on it for the high & low side? If not do you have any A/C manifold gauges around?

If they do I would just jump the compressor & monitor pressure, just turn it off if anything unusual happens. I can't remember what the pressure is supposed to be, but if you've got manuals around they should probably tell you.

Z95m6

Sorry, its just it kind of rubbed me the wrong way but its ok. I had some help doing it by a guy who has done many of the company vehicles and i used the book step by step. Its no "suicide" method i believe thats what it was called in autozone. Its a $4000 machine but back to the real problem. The clutch isn't engaging and i to have a haynes manual and i tested what the haynes manual said, but it didn't work. There are 3 wires in the low pressure sensor plug and i tried every single method to get it to work and it wouldn't work. Now normally you'd think this is a clutch problem but i don't think it is because every time i tired to do this i would get a low pressure switch code which i believe if this is done correctly there shouldn't be any code. I also reset the pcm everytime i tried a different combo of wires with the paper clip, so it wasn't the same code over and over. There are 3 wire on our low pressure switch and our evap temp sensor so maybe you can't do this on our cars. I went and checked my dads 97 chevy pick up and he only had 2 wires on each of those plugs and the paper clip trick worked on his truck.

Z95m6

Yeah the machine has gauges on it but as i said i haven't gotten a chance to check it yet. That will probably be next weekends project i was just looking for ideas of what to look for. I didn't know if low or high refridgerent would set a code or not. Thanks for the help guys anyone know the correct way to jump the compressor on a 95 Camaro?

GreenDemon

I was referring to pressures on the low & high side. They'll be the same with the compressor off, then when it turns on, they'll separate, to low, & high.

Kataklysm

I don't believe refridgerant level sets a code at all, if the system is to low it will not cycle the compressor so it doesn't burn it out, when you charge the system you add oil from the machine and the R134-A carries it around. Did you vacuum the system before charging it? With no vacuum it won't take it in.

Z95m6

Yeah it has gauges for the high and low side on it, but i didn't check the pressures i just put in the refridgerent and went.

Z95m6

Yeah i vaccumed the system for 15 mins and checked for any leaks by waiting to see the pressure went down. I then put the desired amount in. As its been explained to me if the refridgerant won't all go in then that means there isn't enough pressure in the bottle to force it in, so you must start the car to suck it in.

GreenDemon

Don't worry, the pressure gauges don't mean squat until you get the compressor running anyway. Reading the pressures is a very good diagnostic tool- a lot of problems can be found by the gauges alone and not even having to inspect any components.

Z95m6

Damn now if i could only get the compressor to kick on. but at that point hopefully it cools and i won't need any to check it.