killing batteries...
killing batteries...
>ok my car has been modified in so many different areas I can't even start to remember.
So what would be the easiest way to find the "hot" source thats draining my battery?
So what would be the easiest way to find the "hot" source thats draining my battery?
Re: killing batteries...
Use the multimeter to measure current. Instructions if you need to know how, just ask. Be sure everything in the car is turned off. Remove the negative battery cable (or positive but the connections will be reversed) from the battery. Put the positive meter cable on the battery cable and the negative meter lead on the negative battery terminal. So the meter is the bridge from the cable to the battery.
Be sure the meter is set for the highest current (amp) setting possible. Usually 10 amps. See what the meter reads. If it's lower than the meter can acurately show, switch to a lower setting. If you have any current draw, then start removing and replacing fuses one at a time until the draw goes away.
One word of caution. Many people have tried to use a meter to read current that was too high for the meter. Most meters are protected with a fuse for this reason. If someone prior to you has done that to the meter, it will register "0" current draw during the test. This will give you a false sense of not having a current draw when you actually do. If you suspect you have a current draw but the meter says no, open it up and check the fuse for the current section of the meter. Just good piece of mind. Or use the meter to measure a known good current draw like when the lights or radio is on to test it's capability.
BTW if you have a current draw (we all do because of things like radio memory) then there will be a small arc at the battery terminal. The more the current draw, the bigger the arc when the cable comes off and goes back on. So be careful, batteries and sparks usually don't mix. Wear eye protection.
Be sure the meter is set for the highest current (amp) setting possible. Usually 10 amps. See what the meter reads. If it's lower than the meter can acurately show, switch to a lower setting. If you have any current draw, then start removing and replacing fuses one at a time until the draw goes away.
One word of caution. Many people have tried to use a meter to read current that was too high for the meter. Most meters are protected with a fuse for this reason. If someone prior to you has done that to the meter, it will register "0" current draw during the test. This will give you a false sense of not having a current draw when you actually do. If you suspect you have a current draw but the meter says no, open it up and check the fuse for the current section of the meter. Just good piece of mind. Or use the meter to measure a known good current draw like when the lights or radio is on to test it's capability.
BTW if you have a current draw (we all do because of things like radio memory) then there will be a small arc at the battery terminal. The more the current draw, the bigger the arc when the cable comes off and goes back on. So be careful, batteries and sparks usually don't mix. Wear eye protection.
Last edited by Guest47904; Aug 29, 2006 at 05:37 AM.
Re: killing batteries...
Just in case any one is reading this that hasn't used a multi-meter to measure current, might I add to move the probe on the meter to the proper spot! I have yet to see a meter that you can leave the probes plugged in the same spot as for measuring voltage. I have seen a lot of people do this.
Re: killing batteries...
if you remove fuses with the door open, be sure to disconect the interior lighting!
or you have a false read....
If I remember right, my Camaro has a standby current in the range from 6 to 8 mA (0,006A to 0,008A)
after the BCM shutting down.....
btw: currents above 20mA are abnormal in my opinion....
or you have a false read....
If I remember right, my Camaro has a standby current in the range from 6 to 8 mA (0,006A to 0,008A)
after the BCM shutting down.....
btw: currents above 20mA are abnormal in my opinion....
Last edited by Fierotom; Aug 29, 2006 at 09:50 AM.
Re: killing batteries...
Hell, spec on a beemer is 30-50mA but there are a few more control modules on those cars.
I like to use the amp clamp on my scope around the negative battery terminal. This way you don't have to disconnect the battery before checking for a draw. Disconnecting the battery can reset a control module that is drawing making the draw dissappear. Not good when you're trying to find the problem.
Start pulling fuses though and keep them in order until your draw is gone. Re-install that fuse and start pulling consumers off of that fuse until the draw is gone. Keep narrowing it down until you're holding the bad part in your hand. Easy baby!
I like to use the amp clamp on my scope around the negative battery terminal. This way you don't have to disconnect the battery before checking for a draw. Disconnecting the battery can reset a control module that is drawing making the draw dissappear. Not good when you're trying to find the problem.
Start pulling fuses though and keep them in order until your draw is gone. Re-install that fuse and start pulling consumers off of that fuse until the draw is gone. Keep narrowing it down until you're holding the bad part in your hand. Easy baby!
Re: killing batteries...
Like speedy said, use the multimeter and hook it between the battery 12V+ and the main cable to measure current. Ideally you should have 0 amp draw.
I had my battery going dead in two days so I did this and there was 1 amp of current being drawn.
I traced it down by pulling fuses and discovered the light in the trunk was on all the time. This was due to a new alarm install. All fixed now.
I had my battery going dead in two days so I did this and there was 1 amp of current being drawn.
I traced it down by pulling fuses and discovered the light in the trunk was on all the time. This was due to a new alarm install. All fixed now.
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