There are no posts I found about this. Very odd.

Neither door lock switches do ANYTHING on the inside of the car. Both switches are functioning (as per shop manual diagnostics). I have two spares, I've tried on both sides. Nothing. NO relay clicks, nothing happens. Key in or out.

However, my remote key less will unlock and lock the DRIVER's door ONLY. The passenger door will ONLY lock (if it is unlocked). When I hit unlock the actuator cycles but nothing moves (the driver's door unlocks).

Shop manual went into details about this, and I've diagnosed it as a bad passenger actuator which I replaced. Still the issue remains. VERY weird. Almost like there is a bad ground in the car somewhere.

Thoughts? Thanks in advance!

 

Hahaha... just what I thought. Completely Fd up. Many views... no replies.

Switches are fine, lock actuator are fine... grounds for both IC appear to be fine. CRAZY! The car hasn't been driven for almost 2 years. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Otherwise, I'm glad the remote works.

 

had a simmilar problem with a 97 fbird.. just ramdomly while driving the radio would shut off completley and when it did the door locks would also not fucntion (didn't have keyless entry so can't speake about that)... after a few times I started to notice it wasn't so randomly but was when I hit a small bump at a certain angle... some chekcing and pretty sure it tunred out to be either a bad ground going into aftermarket radio wiring harness or a short in the wires going into the wiring harness (I just repalced the whole wiring harness)

thought maybee this will help you isolate the circuit where the problem is?? but wiring can be so crazy to daignose and like you said if the remote works probbaly not worth the headache

 

Pushing the unlock button on the remote once will only unlock the drivers door. Pushing it a second time is supposed to unlock the passenger door.

Do you have access to a voltmeter? I'd start by looking for power at the door switches and backtrack from there if necessary.

 

Oh brother... I did!

Literally... everything pointed to door actuator... and it didn't solve it. I wonder if I got a bum door actuator?

 

Have you tried testing for voltage at the actuator? Have you tried hot wiring the actuator? (applying voltage directly to it) Is it possible that the actuator rod that goes to the inside door lock lever is bound up and preventing the actuator from being able to work the mechanism? Maybe try disconnecting the actuator rod and see if that fixes the problem?

There are 3 more things to try looking into for you.

 

Oh please someone tell me they found the problem. I have exactly smithm's problem and it has been the source of other errors as well. A demon in hot weather let me tell you (or rain).

 

I will and will post back.

 

I will be watching for it.

 

I followed the shop manual through a 30 step diagnostic procedure again. Just to make sure. The problem persists.

I'm glad the results are the same. At least my problem is consistent.

 

When all my diagnostics took place, the key was in the ignition.

I also hardwired the suspected and new door actuator and it did unlock and lock manually with battery power. Again with the circuit connected normally both power lock buttons do NOTHING, yet the remote keyless works locking ONLY the passenger door. It locks and unlocks the driver door fine. If I place the passenger door in the unlock position, hitting unlock with unlock the drivers door yet LOCK the passenger door. It seems the passenger door will ONLY want to lock.

Maybe an engine ground has more to do with this than I thought?

 

Well I'll be a Monkey's Uncle.

Today was a beautiful day, and I took off of work early. My engine installer said he remembers the ground by the starter and that he put that one, and the MAIN ground onto the motor mount NOT the block. So under the car I went to check to see if any had broken. Both were fine.

I remembered that my horn stopped working (could only hear a click) and I went under the bumper to check the connection to the horn. I noticed the bolt holding the assembly on (also the ground for the horn) loose. However, before I got the proper socket to do that, I just moved the assembly back and forth to realize it was loose.

I go to unlock the car and low and behold the driver's side unlocks. I try and switches and BAM all of them work? WTF!

I disassembled the horn assembly to try the locks before I tightened it, to see if that was the issue. Nope. The locks still worked.

So WTF did I do? No grounds were loose... I have no idea what this was, other than I moved the horn assembly. LOL... .isn't that the way electrical stuff goes?

 

gm electrical systems suck in my opinion. i have had nothign but dead end, persistent, no answer problems with a lot of chevy cars. i am sorry for what you went through. i did the same thign with a turn signal on the front of a 2000 v6 camaro. could not find the problem for the life of me....then i put in a cold air intake and must have moved some wire and everythign worked fine

 

Since I bought the car in 1999 I have NEVER had a single electrical issue with the car. I put the hurt on this car through 2.5 winters, and daily drove it for 3 years. Bought with 91,000 kms and it has 302,000 on it now. Sitting outside for almost 2 years took its toll.

Anyway, everything is fine now. Ahh well..

 

What year?

in 96 or 97 and newer car the door locks are controled by the BCM. Even signals from the switches are sent to the BCM. Pull it and ohm the wires to and from the switch and the actuators. The problem with the remote only unlocking the drivers door also points to the BCM.

Re'