Need advice removing/installing door jam light switch
#1
Need advice removing/installing door jam light switch
Asking for advice when removing/installing A pillar door jam courtesy light switch
It appears to me that when unscrewing the switch from the door pillar (or vice versa) the attached wires will twist potentially damaging them. Is there a technique for not damaging the wires or I am ‘overthinking” this repair?
PS. My issue is that the courtesy lights won’t turn off when the doors are closed (and it is not due to the dimmer switch being turned all the way up) and I think it’s a faulty door jam switch. Car is 1995 Formula 6 speed with all the comfort & convenience options
Thanks
It appears to me that when unscrewing the switch from the door pillar (or vice versa) the attached wires will twist potentially damaging them. Is there a technique for not damaging the wires or I am ‘overthinking” this repair?
PS. My issue is that the courtesy lights won’t turn off when the doors are closed (and it is not due to the dimmer switch being turned all the way up) and I think it’s a faulty door jam switch. Car is 1995 Formula 6 speed with all the comfort & convenience options
Thanks
#2
Re: Need advice removing/installing door jam light switch
Long time since I had one apart, but as I recall you can unscrew them without damaging the wires.
There are two wires on the driver side of the car, each with it's own connector to the door jamb switch. The switch is grounded to the sheet metal. When the door open, the switch provides a ground to the interior lights on one wire (gray/black), to the RAP module, and to the ignition switch. The other wire (tan) connects to the ignition key warning switch.
Only one wire with connector on the passenger side. Gray/black, with same function as the gray/black wire on the driver side.
Free factory service manual download:
https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
Schematic: 8A-114-0 (page 2983 in .pdf file)
Harness diagram: 8A-201-44 (page 3183 in the file)
The wires are long enough so you can pull them out or the cavity far enough to work on the connectors. They will twist as you unscrew the switch, but not enough to break the wires.
There are two wires on the driver side of the car, each with it's own connector to the door jamb switch. The switch is grounded to the sheet metal. When the door open, the switch provides a ground to the interior lights on one wire (gray/black), to the RAP module, and to the ignition switch. The other wire (tan) connects to the ignition key warning switch.
Only one wire with connector on the passenger side. Gray/black, with same function as the gray/black wire on the driver side.
Free factory service manual download:
https://www.mediafire.com/?40mfgeoe4ctti
Schematic: 8A-114-0 (page 2983 in .pdf file)
Harness diagram: 8A-201-44 (page 3183 in the file)
The wires are long enough so you can pull them out or the cavity far enough to work on the connectors. They will twist as you unscrew the switch, but not enough to break the wires.
Last edited by Injuneer; 08-27-2017 at 12:10 PM.
#5
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Re: Need advice removing/installing door jam light switch
I can't imagine how that would help but my car doesn't have those type switches so ... maybe. Perhaps turn the switch and wires several turns (CCW) in the opposite direction before re-installing it (CW). That way you get some relief from the twisting.
#8
Re: Need advice removing/installing door jam light switch
Fellas, thanks for the advice. I removed each door switch and the lights stayed on. Somewhat unrelated but after removing - reinstalling the switches I was playing with the passenger seat fore/aft adjustment and "voila" the lights went out. Currently all operations normal. I did have the seats and carpet "moved around" as part of a welding repair on a transmission tunnel brace support bracket. I am surmising that there is a short in that neighborhood
#9
Re: Need advice removing/installing door jam light switch
At the risk of boring you all, I think I have a resolution – there was no problem with the door jam switches. I am 95% certain the problem is a short in the courtesy light circuit which is linked with (1) keyless entry module, (2) retain accessory power module and (3) an alarm system I had installed the first month I bought the car (May 1995). The keyless entry and alarm appear to be located below the glove box
The welding work I had done required moving the passenger kick panel which must have disturbed the aftermarket alarm system ‘spaghetti’. While I have not “found” the short, my shifting the spaghetti seems to have alleviated the problem. My next steps are unclear as this problem has not occurred for more than 22 years. Unless it resurfaces, I am inclined to leave well enough alone.
Thanks to those who tried to help
The welding work I had done required moving the passenger kick panel which must have disturbed the aftermarket alarm system ‘spaghetti’. While I have not “found” the short, my shifting the spaghetti seems to have alleviated the problem. My next steps are unclear as this problem has not occurred for more than 22 years. Unless it resurfaces, I am inclined to leave well enough alone.
Thanks to those who tried to help