car is a 95 formula lt-1 6speed. just turned 100k.

ok, i'll start from the top. had a radiator leak. replaced the radiator. took the car for a ride and excersized it a little about the end of a 1/4 mile i went to turn around and the car just bogged down bad. on the way back from my test road it ran bad with a miss. when i got home in my driveway it was missing at idle. i shut it off. later i went to pull it into my garage and it wouldn't start. it would crank and crank and eventually back fire threw the intake. i figured the opti had gotten wet with the coolant leak. it also just turned 100k. i opted to replace with an accel unit and all new msd wires. after replacing the opti and the wires i went to start. it does the same thing now i'm thinking my little beat ride might have caused it to jump a tooth on the t-chain. i pulled the t-cover and the valve covers. check with the dots straight up that the rockers on the #1 are both loose. the tchain has some slack but hasn't jumped a tooth. my next step is a compression check. everything is ok there too. i can rule out mechaincal failure. i thought perhaps i installed the opti wrong and replaced again. it only goes on one way. it won't seat any other way. re-checked the firing order. it's fine. last night i checked for spark using an interupt light. put it inline with the coil wire to the opti. i'm getting a spark. nothing to the wires tho one would think the opti is bad right? pulled and checked the continuity of the cap and the plug leads. (brand new cap) it's fine. i'm thinking that i'm getting a fire signal but it's out of time. the motor has caught but sounds like it's running 180 out. doesn't really run, just a series of missfires. and pops threw the intake when it's done. the only thing i haven't checked (my meter is fubared) is that i'm getting a 1-4v/ac from terminal b to ground on my ignition control module. i'm starting to think the icm has gone bad or i have ecm issue's. any suggestions?? my first thought was to replace the icm with a known good one. it's also a 95 so it has the obd2 connector and it's obd1. been searching on how to obtain a code from this wacky set up. haven't found out how. i'm getting a code . if i could read it, it would help me figure what's going on. also i've checked for fuel pressure. not with a gauge but i bled off the valve and then had someone crank it. there's good pressure. besides, i highly doubt it's a fuel issue as it's back firing threw the intake. HEEEEELP!
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1996 and up have OBD2 setups. Being a 95 it should be OBD1 with an OBD1 connector... is an OBD2 connector spliced in or something?

Check voltage to the injectors with reference to ground. The injectors are fired by the computer by giving them a ground signal and not 12V if Im not mistaken.

Did you replace the opti with a new unit? If your not getting spark out of the opti and spark from the coil I would guess damaged rotor. I've heard of rotors blowing apart when the motor is spun up high yours could have damage but not not be blown apart yet.

 

94 & 95 have an OBD1 computer and a OBD2 connector. You will have to either get a cable from AKM Cables and a laptop or get a scan tool that will scan this particular combination. Mine is from AutoXray - the cheap one that only jumps the pins will not work. Also, a standard OBD2 scanner will not work. I got mine at the local Kragen (was about $200 for the kit that covers just about everything through 2003-updates are available)
As to the spark, I would pull the cap off the Opti and see if the rotor went south on you. As stated previously, these rotors have a history of coming apart.

 

Hmmm... I didn't know that. Explains why the codes can't be read by a normal scanner.