Stop using the inside gage. It is meaningless. With all good clean connections. A good battery and reading battery voltage at the small plug at the back of the alternator(KOEO), you should have about 14 volts across the battery with the engine running.

IF the small plug at the back of the alternator is within 1 volt of battery voltage(KOEO) then it's ok. MOVE ON to the last test. If you are not getting 14 volts across the battery with the engine running, remove one fuse at a time until it does. If that does not help. Ditch the aftermarket alternator and get an OEM as it is not working.

 

I know that the inside guages can't be trusted. I was simply relating the differences. My entire engine and engine bay is spotless as are all the connections. The small plug on the back is within 1 volt so I guess it's time to start checking fuses. As for the aftermarket alternator, as I stated earlier I took it off and replaced with a OEM I had that I took today and had it checked and it is putting out 14 on the bench but when I put it on the car. . .same as the other one. I'll start working on fuses.

 

OK, I redid every ground wire on the car today. All clean and OK. I pulled every fuse while the car was running to see if that changed the charging any and nothing. My alternator guy suggested I find a fuse location that was reading battery voltage when the key is on and hook into it and then into the back of the alternator thus bypassing the single wire plugin. I tried it but no luck. Here is the problem. With the key on I can't find any fuse location that gives me 12 volts. The closest I can get is 11.8. Is that normal or is that a problem??? Could I have an ignititon switch problem??????

 

what is the battery reading, key on, engine off?

if its at 11.8, then its a battery issue, if higher, take all the fuse links off the post on the drivers side and clean all the ring terminals

 

As previously stated, the battery is a brand new optima red top. Not a week old. The battery reading is about 12.6. You lost me on the post on the driver's side. What are you referring to??

 

opps

I ment passenger side, the red plastic junction post

if the fuses are reading 11.8, you have a voltage drop between the battery and the fuses


are there any fuses that have power with the key off? what do they read? if these read high(12.6v+/- .2), and the switched ones still read low after cleaning the fuse link terminals, then you might have worn contacts in the ignition switch

 

I'll do some checking there. I don't have the red junction post any longer. Sometime ago I got rid of it because I couldn't keep a lid on it. Kept getting hot and breaking off. So I went to a stereo shop and bought a gold plated distribution block and secured it in the same location. I will do a complete check on it and move to the ignition switch. Someone else had suggested the switch but since it is such a pain to change I wanted to make sure that they symptoms I have been having could be cause by the switch. Thanks for the help Dave!

 

Dave,
I just went out to the garage and did some checking. Here is what I found. At the junction box (normaly red but gold on mine) I get a 12.6 reading at every connection. When I go over to the fuse box on the driver's side wheel well I found one fuse that is hot all the time - I think it is for the fog lights - and it is reading 12.6 as well. Think maybe I have a switch problem???? Is there any relatively simple way to test the switch without taking the steering column down or am I going to go for it?? Cost of the switch isn't bad, it's all the labor involved.

 

can you get to the connectors on the switch without to much trouble?

if yes, check them key off, and note which ones have power(12.6v) then turn the key on, and see which other wires have power, and see what it is, the voltage should be the same coming out as goinng in, if not, you have worn/pitted contacts


something else you can try, run a wire strait from the battery to the plug on the alt, see if it changes anything



does the battery warning light on the dash work? should be on , key on, engine off

 

It take a full hour of work just to get everything out of the road to even see the switch. It is mounted on the top side of the steering column about 8 - 10 inches up from the firewall. The battery light does come on when you first turn they key on but goes out when the car starts. I will try to connect the wire and bypass the one being used now. I will probably need to remove the alternator in order to get at the plugin. I'll let you know what happens.

 

Dave,
I was able to get at the single wire plug on the back of the alternator and I did a direct hook to the battery and still no change. It is still showing below or right at 11 when it's running. Does that mean that I have voltage being sapped when I turn the key on??? Switch????

 

I spent the last four hours taking out the steering column and replacing the switch. When I start it, same problem. It my problem was a short somewhere wouldn't that blow a fuse??? In any case I'm at the end of my rope with this one. I need some suggestions. To those that know about the pcm could that possible be a problem???