It looks like the motor burned out again on my drivers side window, and now I can't roll it up. It happened this morning when I got to work. I had to roll it down so I could use my access badge to open up the gate to the parking lot, but after that I couldn't roll it up.

Is there any way to force the window up manually? Its raining here today, and I have a 30 mile drive ahead of me this afternoon.

 

Typically you can wait about an 1 hour or so and it will go up.... sometimes not all the way, but over time you can usually get it to go up some more each time you wait.

 

The only way I know of to get it to go again is to cool down the window motor, which is inside the door. No way to do that quickly/easily -- you just have to wait it out.

The problem is that the window motor isn't supplied with enough current, which causes it to burn out. As it burns out, it begins to run hotter, which triggers the thermal overload protection circuit in the motor. You can replace the motor, but it will just fail again. You can disable the thermal overload protection circuit and keep your existing motor, but it will get slower and slower over time (and louder too). The right move is to replace the motor and get one of these:

http://autotrix.net/Product-Driver-W...own-Kit_8.aspx

I recommend doing the passenger door too -- they have a kit for that as well.

 

Thanks for the suggestions. I managed to get the window to go up as I was on the way to the repair shop. The motor went bad, and it is now being replaced.

 

Actually as noted it's not really that the motor went bad... It's that it doesn't get enough current, and it's engaging the 'Thermal Protector'.

I've replaced my Drivers Side with one from AutoZone under the same thinking as you, and it appears to be working fine after 5 years, but the better fix is to re-wire the motor with Auto-Trix Kit. (My plan is to do both sides in the spring as my passenger side is acting up)

So although you are replacing it now, expect that it will come back as an issue again...

Also did they really check the motor??? I've also heard that sometimes the Auto-Trix Kit can even fix problem motors without replacing them.

 

The motor really does go bad.

Not enough current -> damaged brushes -> motor runs hot -> thermal protection stops motor from working.

Yes, supplying the additional current with the AutoTrix kit can revive a "dead" motor, but when you can get a replacement motor from GM Parts Direct for $25, why wouldn't you swap it out while you're in there? The replacement will be faster and quieter than one that's been damaged by years of insufficient current.

 

When it fails again in a couple years, maybe you'll believe me and buy the AutoTrix kit. Better yet, trust me and do it now.

 

I will look into that, but the motor itself did indeed fail. When I got it to the shop the mechanic tried it out and it made this loud grinding sound and the window wouldn't move (this time it was already up).

Additionally it turns out that some pieces were broken and missing that are supposed to hold the window in place. Apparently the last guy that replaced te motor (a chevy dealer technician) didn't put my door back together properly.

 

I was wondering, does the drivers side power window motor and the passenger side power window motor differ in any way?

 

No, they are the same.