Drivers side window won't roll up -Can it be forced up manually?
#1
Drivers side window won't roll up -Can it be forced up manually?
It looks like the motor burned out again on my drivers side window, and now I can't roll it up. It happened this morning when I got to work. I had to roll it down so I could use my access badge to open up the gate to the parking lot, but after that I couldn't roll it up.
Is there any way to force the window up manually? Its raining here today, and I have a 30 mile drive ahead of me this afternoon.
Is there any way to force the window up manually? Its raining here today, and I have a 30 mile drive ahead of me this afternoon.
#3
The only way I know of to get it to go again is to cool down the window motor, which is inside the door. No way to do that quickly/easily -- you just have to wait it out.
The problem is that the window motor isn't supplied with enough current, which causes it to burn out. As it burns out, it begins to run hotter, which triggers the thermal overload protection circuit in the motor. You can replace the motor, but it will just fail again. You can disable the thermal overload protection circuit and keep your existing motor, but it will get slower and slower over time (and louder too). The right move is to replace the motor and get one of these:
http://autotrix.net/Product-Driver-W...own-Kit_8.aspx
I recommend doing the passenger door too -- they have a kit for that as well.
The problem is that the window motor isn't supplied with enough current, which causes it to burn out. As it burns out, it begins to run hotter, which triggers the thermal overload protection circuit in the motor. You can replace the motor, but it will just fail again. You can disable the thermal overload protection circuit and keep your existing motor, but it will get slower and slower over time (and louder too). The right move is to replace the motor and get one of these:
http://autotrix.net/Product-Driver-W...own-Kit_8.aspx
I recommend doing the passenger door too -- they have a kit for that as well.
Last edited by JakeRobb; 10-20-2010 at 11:00 AM.
#5
I've replaced my Drivers Side with one from AutoZone under the same thinking as you, and it appears to be working fine after 5 years, but the better fix is to re-wire the motor with Auto-Trix Kit. (My plan is to do both sides in the spring as my passenger side is acting up)
So although you are replacing it now, expect that it will come back as an issue again...
Also did they really check the motor??? I've also heard that sometimes the Auto-Trix Kit can even fix problem motors without replacing them.
#6
Not enough current -> damaged brushes -> motor runs hot -> thermal protection stops motor from working.
Yes, supplying the additional current with the AutoTrix kit can revive a "dead" motor, but when you can get a replacement motor from GM Parts Direct for $25, why wouldn't you swap it out while you're in there? The replacement will be faster and quieter than one that's been damaged by years of insufficient current.
#7
When it fails again in a couple years, maybe you'll believe me and buy the AutoTrix kit. Better yet, trust me and do it now.
#8
Additionally it turns out that some pieces were broken and missing that are supposed to hold the window in place. Apparently the last guy that replaced te motor (a chevy dealer technician) didn't put my door back together properly.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
squarehead
General 1967-2002 F-Body Tech
0
11-21-2014 08:02 PM
chevroletfreak
LT1 Based Engine Tech
202
07-04-2005 05:00 PM