There seem to be so many different ways to go about this - which is the best? If I were to do it using only the radiator drain - it seems pretty un-efficient: drain radiator, fill with distilled water - repeat that process until colorless - then fill the radiator with however much coolant is in the block (a gallon I believe?) plus whatever distilled water/coolant mix is needed to then top it off. Close up the radiator - purge air....etc..

What route do most of you prefer? Do shops do a better job of actually "flushing"? (I would use Prestone flush as well)...if so - I'm afraid they'd hurt my opti (even NICE shops)

I should do this tomorrow - but want some input first/etc.

Thanks!

 

you can always pull the lower radiator hose and just run the engine for a minute

it won't heat up enough to damage anything...and should pump most of it out.

beyond that you could pull the thermostat and just put a hose in the radiator cap and open the drain...run it for a few minutes. water should circulate freely with no stat...and eventually it will dilute untill its pure water..and since its cool water from the hose...it wont overheat

 

Sounds like popping the stat and using the hose - then pumping everything out as described in the first part of your post, then refilling with distilled/coolant - is what I will go for. I'm a little hesitant about running it for a short period with no cooling protection..

We'll see..

 

At my shop there is a machine we have(Wynn's Coolant flush machine) that has two hoses coming from it.

Basically you take the upper radiator hose off, and connect two adaptors into each end. You then plug the two adaptors together(they are male and female ended).

Then you run the car until the thermostat opens(you'll see coolant flowing through the hoses between the adaptors).

Then you unplug the male/female part and plug each of them into the two lines coming from the machine itself.

Basically the machine is full of 2 gallons of water. It pumps this water into the top of the radiator, then goes throughout the block, then out of the upper radiator hose(which has the adaptor still on it, now plugged into one of the machine's hoses) and then into a bucket.

We flush 2 gallons of water through the system, then when it beeps(signalling it is empty), we put one gallon of coolant + one gallon of water through it. When it beeps again we shut the machine off and the car. Plug the hoses back where they are supposed to go, start the car, and top off with water/purge air, etc.



In a nutshell, there's no way in hell you'll clean it as good as a VERY expensive machine.

edit: forgot to add there are a few chemicals we run through the car as well. First we use a "radiator flush" solution and let it circulate through the car to supposedly break down gunk inside, the after the flush we put a bottle of "radiator sealant" in it.

edit #2:
http://www.wynnsusa.com/cooling.asp

It's the first thing under "Cooling service equipment"

 

Here's a link from Shoebox's site: http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#radflush

 

Just a little tip on filling it back up. Leave the throttle body to head coolant line open until fluid starts to come out of it when filling. This way you get most of the air out of the system. Then leave the cap off and run the car with heater on high until and keep filling it with a 50/50 dexcool/distilled water solution. Check every day for a couple days and fill as needed.

 

I've allways had trouble getting all the old crap out of there myself. THat sounds like a good idea...

I have to do my 160* stat this weekend. Prolly could use a flush too....lookin cruddy.

 

IMO - I don't see anything special about that procedure. 2 gallons of water to flush? That seems like nothing - how can you be sure that 3 gallons still wouldn't be bringing out discolored water? Prestone flushing chemicals seem like they would have the same effect in removing buildup - and does everyone really need radiator sealant? I just don't see how that could be so much better than taking more time and flushing more yourself.

 

Just curious - does your shop just have one (the "blue" one)? Or do you have the "orange" one too to keep extended life coolants seperate?

EDIT: the dex-flush model has a backflush feature at least

 

Are we SUPPOSED to be using DEX?? I though DEX was for bi-metal engines?

Would the green stuff harm the alum motors?

 

We just have the blue machine, we run both types of coolant through it, as long as you flush it with water to get all the other stuff out first.

I'm not saying anyone NEEDS the sealant. It's just a little maybe 15oz bottle of stuff we put it.

And these machines push the stuff out repeatedly under high pressure, while the motor is running. It flushes the entire cooling system, not just the radiator(heater core, engine block, etc).

There's nothing wrong with switching to orange coolant, but you need everything in the system flushed out VERY good because any green + orange = gummed up crap that builds up. IMO there's no need to switch, the green stuff works plenty well. Whatever came out, you should put in.

Yes maybe you could remove more yourself, but you need to remember, those machines are meant to do stuff in a dealership where time is money. Go try to flush out and fill the entire cooling system in about 20-25min without making a huge mess.

Ideally I would say if you want it flushed with that machine, just ask do have several more gallons run through it to make sure it's extra clean. The hose that goes into the bucket is clear so you can see what it looks like coming out. I've never had to use more than 2 gallons before it is nice and clear.

 

Shoebox's tip did a great job. I combined that knowldge with the back of the coolant and flush bottle instructions and it went pretty well.


Here's a good thread regarding a debate as to if this is even a factor.

 

I agree - they're perfect for dealers -- I wasn't sure how presurized they were just, etc. I'm not saying they don't get the job done -- it's probably just me who didn't fully understand them. Thanks for the info!

 

Dex came with my car, i'm going to keep using it.

 

Good luck on that left side block drain. I took it out once and will never do it again. It took about 15 min to get out and about an hr to get back in and I even had to bend a wrench with a torch to do that. There is a hole in the frame to get to the knock sensor/drain on the right side but the left one is hidden under the frame, hence the problem. I found out that by opening the drain in the bottom of the radiator half of the coolant runs out-so I replace half every two years which seems to keep everything ship-shape.