heres the rundown right quick 94 T/a Auto the car has 124k miles on it the car just the other day pulled the i dont want to start mission you turn the key forward and all of the guages on the dash works and lights up also radio and headlights work,heres what i have done all in one day and still cant the car to turn over through the KEY i was able to get the car off the side of the road by using a remote starter switch with power from battery and the other clamp on the purple wire which goes to the starter solenoid once you turn the key back then forward the car wont start, even if you jiggle it back and forth nothing.


2ndly the pass key i doubt is not the issue due to the fact there is no security flashing in fact it doesnt come on at all weather you turn the key on or even if you disconnect the little 2 wire connector at the bottom of the column is this right? i pulled out the cluster to make sure the bulbs was in there and it is and good, the other reason i think its not pass key is because it has fuel and spark to turn on with the remote starter switch.i think when the pass key is on it does not allow fuel or spark to come out.

well i changed out the starter switch just for the "F" of it and saw that the one that was in there wasnt burnt at all although the pigtail was but plugged into the new switch w/o a problem it looks as if someone had changed this previously due to the date on the switch and it felt as if it was working correctly but i changed it for fun especially for $15 after all of this i installed it and it still doesnt want to start motor doent turn over or anything but still starts with the remote starter switch.?????

what cables are supposed to have power in the blue connector which goes to the switch? i only have one cable with power with the car off and key baCK its the middle one the top one looks to have 2 cables going into 1 pin is there supposed to be power there? i think theres 4 or 5 cables in total or pins?

i also put a test light to the purple cable going to the starter and had my buddy try to crank it when he did there still was no power going to the starter solenoid.....

whats the deal shoebox where are you??????

 

Maybe a bad Theft Deterrent Relay (TDR) ? (located to the right of the glovebox pinned on the other side of a metal brace)
The purple wire to the starter comes from there.

http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_95.jpg

 

Might also be the neutral/safety switch. I've done parking lot fixes with a U shaped section of a large paper clip. Go to the N/S switch, pop off the connector with the heavy gage wires (these are for starter solenoid current, the light gage wires are for reverse lights) and use the U to jump across the connector. finish with a little tape to insulate. If it fixes, drive by the parts shop and pick up a new switch. Looks like it's referred to as a "range switch" in shoebox's diagram, but I've always known them as neutral/safety.

 

the car is AUTO

2ndly shoebox well i got to the TDR theft deterent relay what a pain to pull it out when i finally got it out i saw its a 4 plug relay GRAY well i went and checked power in all the pins and found that only the thick yellow wire is the only one with power which i think is the one that runs from under the steering column from ignition switch to relay then there is the PURPLE wire which i know goes to the starter NO power there when i turn the switch then there is a BROWN cable which i thought was ground but i am not sure? also heres something the last and other cable is a thin yellow with a black line on it i had put the test light to it and tried cranking over the car to see if there is power and BAM the car turns ON with the thin yellow/black wire is GROUNDED....

so whats my problem can i just run a ground wire to the yellow and black thin wire and BOOM or will the cable get hot or melt or something do i have to run a fuse in line if so how many amps.

would this mean that the RElay is faulty if so how can i check it i tried pulling out the other grey relay next to it which i belive is for the rear hatch popper and still the car didnt want to turn over.

anyone...

 

It means the VATS module is not getting a ground to the relay on the little yellow/black wire (see it in the schematic?) So, could be a wiring issue or VATS module problem. You can permanently ground the yellow/black wire and be ok, but you will no longer have the function of the VATS disabling cranking.

 

cool beans shoebox this is a will do as its the only thing i have left to do and the owner of the car said whatever it takes to get the car running again he almost wanted me to install a push button switch to get the car to turn on.


you helped alot bud i hope this also helps someone else out as i had never in my life encountered a situation as puzzling as this one.


now all he needs to do is a tranny rebuild and we are good to go.....

 

I had a similar prob and the dealer said it was a bad return ground to the computer.