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B&M Shifter install help

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Old Dec 16, 2006 | 08:28 PM
  #1  
scof0elife's Avatar
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From: Burlingame California
B&M Shifter install help

I am about to do a swap for my stock hurst for a B&M Ripper Shifter. But the person I am buying it from said that we might not be able to install the shifter because we need to adjust the stops for a new shifter and adjust the first and researve. He doesn't know how to do it neither do I. If these adjustments are true can someone please guide me to some instructions on how to install the B&M Shifter. I need help fast guys, we're doing the swap tomorrow morning. Thanks everyone!
Old Dec 17, 2006 | 01:10 AM
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Don't jump all at once now, 5 views and no reply's. Help a brotha out guys!
Old Dec 17, 2006 | 07:53 AM
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The "stops" are simply threaded bolts on the gate. When you see the shifter plate, there will be bolts to restrict the movement from the neutral postion to the "in gear" positions. I currently have mine backed almost all the way out on my Pro 5.0 shifter...
Old Dec 17, 2006 | 09:15 AM
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I sent you a pm
Old Dec 17, 2006 | 04:27 PM
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Just installed the B&M shifter and to tell you the truth I don't feel that its any of a shorter shift then the hurst shifter that comes in WS6 and SS. The guy I swapped with didn't have the stop screws so we installed it without adjusting the stops. Is that maybe why I am not noticing a shorter shift then the hurst? Need help again guys, thanks!
Old Dec 17, 2006 | 08:12 PM
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i think the husrt are short throw to begin with. maybe not as short as stock but shorter,
Old Dec 17, 2006 | 08:13 PM
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I sent you a pm. Hope it helps!
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 11:34 AM
  #8  
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By any chance would anyone know the size of the bolts for the stop adjustments?
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 04:16 PM
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The stops aren't going to make a big difference and if you screw them in too far, you run the risk of not fully engaging, or popping out of gear. How long is the threaded part of the stick? Maybe you could cut it down, or get a shorter stick?
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by danziger
The stops aren't going to make a big difference and if you screw them in too far, you run the risk of not fully engaging, or popping out of gear. How long is the threaded part of the stick? Maybe you could cut it down, or get a shorter stick?
Well the stick on the B&M is one peice so I can't replace the stick for a shorter one. I purchased a short stick from ebay and used that for my stock hurst shifter which was great. The B&M is just a little longer then the short stick that I have. The only solution is to find someone to trade my B&M for a Pro 5.0.
Old Dec 18, 2006 | 06:18 PM
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Originally Posted by scof0elife
Well the stick on the B&M is one peice so I can't replace the stick for a shorter one. I purchased a short stick from ebay and used that for my stock hurst shifter which was great. The B&M is just a little longer then the short stick that I have. The only solution is to find someone to trade my B&M for a Pro 5.0.
You will not regret the Pro 5.0 purchase. I got turned on to them back when I was into the 5.0 Stang scene. The one I have in my Z28 has about 3/4" of thread cut off and the original factory Hurst ****. Works like a charm and much better than the $300+ Hurst option that it replaced...
Old Dec 19, 2006 | 08:58 PM
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From: TexaS
I went from a ripper shifter to a hurst short throw and was much happier on my 1995 LT1.
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