Just curious,

I'm in the market for an LS1 SS, and I noticed a few had the traction control button, a few didn't, whats the deal with that??

Also I know everyone here is an expert, but what should I look for. I am very familiar with GM and their vehicles, I know the normal stuff to look for when buying a used car.

But anything on the SS that I should avoid, look for, etc. I just looked at a 2000 and the T Tops were already leaking a few drips, so maybe I'll stay away from those. Thanks for the help.

-JT

 

Traction control was an option, some were ordered with it, some weren't, that would be why the button is only on some of the cars you looked at.

Personally I ordered my Z without it

 

Traction control was an option, mine doesn't have it. My t-tops leak a couple drops on the drivers side only during hard pounding rain - imagine you'd be hard pressed to find a Z28 or SS without them.

 

Ok so hows a car without the traction control? Is it just pretty much off all the time, does it have limited slip, or what?

Also what are the build numbers on the SS Without T-Tops, I have seen a bunch that don't have em, but maybe its rare. Thanks!

-JT

 

Try to get a car without traction control unless you need it. It activates by default at each startup and you need to remember to turn it off should you want to have any fun. More permanent solutions include a SLP module that reverses operation, or just pulling the fuse and blocking off the idiot light in the cluster. Not a big deal either way but personally I hate the ASR and mine was disabled in a week. The ASR system simply kills wheelspin by reducing engine throttle and if bad enough using the brakes. It is of no value whatsoever unless you want it for rain or snow. It is not a stability system and won't help you control the car. Just wheelspin, which we all know is fun.

T tops became standard in the later years on V8 cars. They are actually pretty trouble free in 4th gens. Usually if there is a leak the weatherstripping would be obviously damaged or the glass alignment would be off. But if there are big gaps I would look for crash damage or obvious glass problems like split doors (the adhesive bond can fail and allow the glass to float more than it should). It is normal for some drops to sneak in with a straight hose or in carwash, but there shouldn't be a constant leak during say light rain.

- Listen for rear end noise. Gear whine and/or bearing noise. A little whine is semi-normal but it shouldn't grow with speed or be off-pedal. Cars have glass rear diffs. If you get an auto try to get one with 3.23's. All SS's should be 3.23's, but Z28's can have 2.73's, which will eventually bug you if you are a speed nut. Gear changes are expensive and risky, as the diff isn't quite up to par in the first place.

- All manual rear diffs are the same, 3.42's. Use the RPO sheet to know what gears should be in there, if they have been changed then make sure you get whatever tuning device (or at least know about it) that was used to correct the speedometer and shift tuning.

- 00' and later cars came with Torsen posi's, which generally work until they BREAK. Auburns however, can just wear out and still run.

- ~2 gallon bigger, plastic gas tank in 99+. Working temp gauge in 98's (only).

- Try to start the car 100% cold, to see if it has piston slap. Doesn't really hurt anything but if it bothers you obviously you don't want a car that does it. The LS1 has a sort of hollow knocking sound at idle which is different than older pushrod motors. Takes some getting used to.

- Rust shows up first in the fender wells, the corners around the taillamps, and the rear inside corner of the door sill, to give you some idea of the salt life. Lots of cars with broken lower fender tabs. Look for breaks, cracks, or otherwise jerry-rigged lower fender mounts. Cars get jacked up on them by accident, once they are broke you need new fenders for it to be right.

- Look up the Vin and verify it is a real SS. All the SS parts and/or imitations can be had pretty easily and fairly cheap, so knock-off cars are common. A real SS hood is a 1k+ part.

- On the same note mileage fraud is terribly, almost ridiculously, easy. Do what you can to check out at least a carfax or the owners local service history, if he used a consistent place that can be used to trace the mileage.

- Any GM dealership can run the VIN and print out the full service history and sticker of the vehicle. Yes it will only be dealer service items but this is good place to find out about a warranty engine swap or a car riddled with problems at the get go. Go during a slow time and ask nicely. I'm not sure if they are supposed/allowed to do this but most will.

- There are internet lists of the exact changes from year to year. Generally speaking 01's and 02's are best, while 98's are oddballs due to a different computer setup. All cars equal out pretty much with similar mods, but 01-02 are stronger in stock trim.

fingers are tired.

 

Agreed on the ASR. Mine's got it and it's like part of my startup to turn it off now. I hate it.

I love my t-tops, but yes, they do leak.

 

[QUOTE=todddchi]T tops became standard in the later years on V8 cars./QUOTE]

I disagree with that statement - T-tops were an option that I didn't select when I ordered my '02 Z28. Just from what I've seen though it seems that most were ordered with them.

 

If a car didn't come w/ traction ctrl, would it still have the 2 gear launch function (A4) ?

 

I put Subframe Connectors on just after getting the car and no leaks

 

The t-top leak is common, but I've never seen it from rain -- only from high-pressure water, like when I'm washing the car. Trust me, having t-tops is totally worth having to wipe the inside of the window after you wash the car.

If you get a hardtop, it will be harder to sell down the road. Most people seem to want/prefer t-top cars. Just a thought.

As stated above, if you get an auto, avoid the ones with 2.73 gears (only a problem on Z28's -- all SS's have the right gears).

'01 and '02 cars are the fastest in stock trim. Contrary to popular belief, an SS is not faster in a straight line or more powerful than a Z28 of the same year. Handling is a bit better due to wider tires, larger wheels, and tighter suspension.

I like ASR. I turn it off at the strip, and when I want to play, but I leave it on the rest of the time. It's nice in the rain. It's not as good as stability control, but it did prevent me from going off the racecourse while exiting a turn once, and has otherwise never interfered with my driving at the track.

 

Well I appreciate all that, lots of info to take in, thats exactly what I needed. I was looking at 98's, but was thinking there might be something up since they were the first with LS1, etc. 01-02 seems to be the deal, thanks again!