Why do they refer to the rear end on the 98-02 F-bodys as the "Glass rear end"? Is it the housing or the gears? At what HP level do these typically fail and under what degree of abuse? What can be done to prolong life besides replacing the whole R/E?--Stud Girdle? And advis ewould help.
--Thanx--

 

the gears and LSD, as well as the axles are the weak points...they are just not big enough or strong enough to handle abuse.

some guys are running 500hp through them, some guys are killing them with 300hp.
i think it more depends on the type of tires. high hp and sticky tires (particularly slicks) will probably kill a rear quickly. street tires have more give and will not be as much of a strain.

i've heard that M6 cars with good clutches are harder on rears than autos, due to a more sudden load shock.

a differential cover or rear end girdle will definatly help, but it still leaves alot of weaknesses.

 

Thanx, I appreciate the help. When I get some spare cash--yeah, not on military pay---I'll look into a Moser 12 bolt W/ decent axles, probably 3.73's

 

torque kills rear ends, not HP

more specifically sudden application of torque, such as a clutch dump with the rear tires sticking.

 

Hmm...True... Thanx again! I appreciate the help guys.

 

Roll into the throttle and go easy on the shifts and your rear end will thank you for it. In a car, it's always about the weakest link, and if you get some sticky tires, that will become your rear end- and the clutch, if you like dumping it.

Imagine having your fist up against a wall. No matter how hard you push, you won't be able to break through. Now bring your fist back, and swing. There will be a hole. The transmission and rear end both have clearances between all the gears for lubrication purposes, which you could relate to the gap between your fist and the wall. With the ring and pinion being as small as they are on the f-body, jerking the drivetrain around like that is not a good idea. There is of course, also the c-clip issue, only one side of the pinion gear being supported, cone-type clutches in the auburn posi, etc. There's a lot of reasons the rear end is the weakest link in the 4th gens- although some of those issues can only be solved by a 9".

 

Do you think it would be a waste of money to buy a stud girdle and/or 3.73's to stiffen it up a little? Just for now, ya know?
Or save it.......I found a Moser 12 bolt, full set up. 30 or 33 slpine LSD, pro-street gears, alloy axles, pinion yoke and chrome cover for $2g....Not to bad.

 

id save your money and buy a 12bolt or better yet a 9"

 

I'm not a 24/7 at the track kind of guy, but I can't leave well enough alone, when it comes to the motor. So I think I will eventually be running 6 or 700hp. How long and to what degree will the 12 bolt hold up and can I get a 9" as a direct bolt-in replacement? Do you have to fabricate mounts for it?

 

A 9" is a great idea. Most places will sell bolt-in ones, a little more expensive than a 12 bolt. A 9" will be stronger, and as a bonus, the center section is separate, so basically you can install and adjust your gears properly on a bench and not under the car. If you have a shop you can work at or a garage with a welder & other fabrication tools, you could take a 9" from a junkyard and go from there, it will be a little cheaper that way.

 

Woa....no Sh*t huh? That sound pretty cheap, x-cept for the gears, lsd and axles....sweet! Easy to set up too... I'm definitly going to check that out when the time comes...I still have 2 years left to pay on the car, so not quite yet. But, seroiusly, thanx for all the advice. I really appreciate it!