I'm a newbie to the fourth gen cars so bear with me. I picked up a project car that was sitting for about a year.I got it cheap so no worries. When i try to start the car I get nothing. The security light stays on. I tested the key with a multimeter and found the pellet value to be 681 (#3). Then I unhooked the purple wire connector under the dash and checked that also 681. Iwent to radio shack and purchased resistors 680 ohm , 1/2 watt 5% tollerence. Installed it taped it up and still nothing.I have done all the searches on this and other sights and I still don't understand what my next step should be. I think all fuses are good but I dont know if there are some relays that could be at fault.Am I missing something. I only have one car key and have no problem having a new one cut . Any and all help appreciated. Thanks-John

If you also got the same ohm reading at the harness connector under the dash, that would mean the circuit from there to the key cylinder is ok. You may have trouble with the VATS module, itself or the connection right there at it.

I was hopeing you would reply because it was your site I got the information from. Any way to test the vats module or do you know if these are expensive? Thanks-John

No real testing info for the module, itself. They are $100+ .

What does it look like? How hard is it to get to and where under there is it?Thanks-John

It's a box to the right of the radio, attached to the air bag bracket.
Wires going into it should be:
Orange
Pink
Dark Blue
Yellow/Black
Grey
Black/White
and the two wires from the key cylinder below:
Purple/White
White/Black

I won't have time to work on it this weekend but I'll keep posted how its coming. I think somewhere down the road this car had a alarm system wired in there and I belive this will complicate things because it may have been removed. I wish I could just bypass/disable the whole vats system so I can see what I am in for with this car and its motor issues. Is the resistor the only way to bypass it? Thanks again for the help shoebox and you have a awsome internet site with tons of great information-John

Ok, well I bypassed the vats relay I think,fat yellow and fat purple wires still no crank, security light on. I also do not see the vats module there. Is it supposed to be near the relay?Another thing I just remembered is when I first picked the car up I noticed there was no fuse in the crank(3 amp) spot.When I attempt to start the car the only thing I hear is the fuel pump coming on and a relay clicking in the engine compartment.Any suggestions. Thanks-John

Bypassing the relay may let you crank it, but still won't let the engine run because the VATS module will not be providing the fuel enable signal to the PCM.
The module is on the opposite side of the glovebox from the relay.

Having it programmed out of the PCM is another solution.

Ok, I found the vats module. Does the dash have to be removed to remove this? How would I go about getting this programed out of the computer, who does this type of programing and what are the ballpark costs? Thanks-John

You would have to ask someone like http://madz28.com/ or pcmforless.com.

Does the dash have to be removed to take out this module? If I have to take out the dash anything special about the passenger side airbag. Thanks again-John

Just the right lower panel and maybe glove box. No messing with the air bag.

Man this sucks.I don't know if ours are mounted in different areas but mine is not accessed thru the glovebox. I can only gain access to one screw thru the radio spot(has already been removed). It is mounted to a metal frame type bracket. I have owned at least 15 second and third gen camaros and firebirds and this is my second 1994 formula but these cars are such a pain to work on.I am not a newbie to cars in general but it seems my chiltons is no help here. Thanks for all the help. I'm becoming a pest with this stupid problem.

Shoebox on the resistor for the vats disable the ones at radio shack are 1/2 watt is that the right ones. My key measured 9.5k ohms so with the 5% tolerance i'm thinking that the 10 ohm should check out close. Thanks Frank95z