So I'm building up my ignition for my new motor(procharged 383) and would like to know some options.

So far I have a MSD 6 BTM.

Delteq- Looks like they are no longer in business, so it would probably be a bad idea to do that

LTCC- Still uses the opti, so what would be the point on my sub 6800rpm motor?

Gm opti- Looks like everyone says this is the way to go, but want to look at all options.

MSD opti- Apparently people were having problems with these when they first came out, but what about now? Can they be modified to work well?

Traditional distributor- I've got a SBC intake with the distributor hole in the back of the intake, but the stock PCM won't run this kind of distributor and retain the sequential injection without some modification.

Has anyone seen these, they look like a traditional distributor/optispark. Looks like it would fit under the cowl.
http://store.summitracing.com/compar...=KeywordSearch

Running the MSD opti here, but I was one of those people who had problems with them and still have problems. You would be safest to run a New AC Delco/GM opti.

I run an Autozone reman. base w/ MSD cap/rotor, 20k on it and running strong.

I have had 3 vented opti's destroyed. All of them... rotor failure. Even a new gm PParts opti failed in 2 weeks. I returned it to Summit. Running a similar set-up... MSD 6a with 8202 coil, MSD var-timing/ Zex plugs. I have found that by modifiing the rotor attachment contact, rotor failure is greatly reduced or eliminnated. I use small length 1/8 rivets in two (2) places. Also, the typical vent tube check/ filter is highly restrictive and can limit air flow to cool the opti internals. Eliminated. I routed the opti air tube output in a safe location to minimize chance of moisture pick-up. Also, provided a suction port near the D1 compressor inlet. If you run a PCV line to your compressor inlet, it is adviseable to locate the opti suction port up stream due to crankcase oil pick-up under load. Also, run an oil separator. I went to an external Vac pump system that eliminated all oil entrainment in the intake air charge. Also, the use of filter oil can fowl a vented opti as set-up above. I run my KN dry, or, oil it and use a heat gun to drive excess oil out of the filter matrix. I now run a Summit vented opti, and, runs great, but, opti's always need at-least yearly maitenance. Hope this helps. B

The vent is not to cool anything. It is to remove ozone from the distributor. The restrictor (there on purpose) is there to prevent excess vaccum from deflecting the internal parts and causing rotational clashing. Yes, there are people that have had this occur by running straight vacuum. IMHO, you are creating a potential problem, rather than preventing anything.

For FI applications, unrestricted opti vent can work. It appears we have a disagreement. Stock opti's are not reliable with high spark energy distribution for FI application. This information was offered freely. You do not have to use it. B.

On my first LT-1 Procharger set-up, I ran the LTCC system and it performed flawlessly. As mentioned many times before, the most significant "problem" with the Opti-spark ignition is the secondary portion. ie. the parts that carry the high voltage from the coil to the plugs. While the LTCC system still relies on the optical sensor and wheel located inside the Opti-spark unit to send the correct signal to it, you eliminate all high voltage from the Opti-spark. As a result, you can then remove the rotor from inside the Opti-spark unit which has had issues with coming apart.

Still on the stock opti - Installed the blower, Crane Hi-6 and LX-92 coil at 17k, replaced the cap and rotor with MSD parts at 30k. Have been using the Crane Hi-6 and LX-92 coil for 15k miles, the stock cap had 10k with the Hi-6 when I changed it, but it looked fine and was working OK. My car is fairly low miles and harsh use. I rev to 6400 maybe. A blower car doesn't need to rev too high, so the opti will live if it's a good one with the ball bearings, venting, and a good rotor. Corrosion/erosion of the inner terminals from a high energy msd doesn't seem too bad if the venting is working to get the ozone out. Some guys have them last a long time, others have worse luck.

I replaced several opti's within a 20k period. The last time I just replaced the cap and rotor with MSD components and I've had no problems and that was 17k ago. Ofcourse don't listen to me... I'm the same guy that can change his plugs and wires in an hour

I'm using the stock opti on a supercharged 396. The only difference anything is going to make is how much voltage you put through the ignition. If you have the Crane ignition box, and bigger coil, my opinion is that you'll get 70,000 miles out of the cap and rotor instead of the 90,000 you might get with a stock ignition.
You can get a lifetime guaranteed opti from O'Reilly's. They sell a Borg Warner cap and rotor, and the...I think it's Cardone or something optical sensor half edit: (remanufactured, but the piece looks good) edit:. About $400 total. Autozone sells a lifetime guaranteed optical half, but there's no guarantee on their cap and rotor. The manufacturer of the optical piece Autozone sells is the same as at O'Reilly's but Autozone's is about $15 more. The Borg Warner cap and rotor looks pretty much same, maybe a little higher quality than stock.

How about people tell what problems you had and how you fixed it?

Since my rebuilt at 120K on the stock Opti I decided to go with a new one... ALL my opti's (3 stock replacement and 2 MSD PRO BILLET - YES 2 MSD Pro-Billet, Im on the third now), 4 of the 5 failed due to loose rotor screws. One stock replacement (first one) failed because I installed it wrong and the pressure of the cam dowel destroyed the bearing.. haha.. YES YOU CAN INSTALL THEM WRONG. Time Until Failure for each of the other 4 OPTI's was between 1wk and 2 months of light duty non-daily driven usage... haha. Serious.

Thing is, each one started running like SHJT a while before it actually blew apart... I started getting random missfires, backfires, high RPM cutouts, ect...

Each one I took apart had one rotor screw all trashed out and the other one fairly new looking, meaning one was gettting beat around for awhile while the second one was still holding.

Upon close inspection of the second MSD PRO BILLET, I noticed what I think is BLUE LOCKTITE not on the severly beat up screw while the second rotor screw was still OK... and it had more BLUE LOCKTITE on it.

Long Story short... upon my THIRD MSD PRO-BILLET OPTI I dissassembled it and used RED LOCKTITE on the two rotor screws, re-assembled it, and things have been A-OK for over 1yr of continuous severe almost daily beatings.

FUnny thing about the 4 other Opti failures, the Rotor decided to totally SHJT apart at Redline, each time.. WOT 650hp worth of fuel all being ignited at the wrong time.. NICE. Huge Backfire each time... once at night and my G/F was behind me it was like fireworks she said. Im lucky my motor didnt blow up after all that.