I'm finally wrapping things up after months of the car being apart. I used braided fuel lines from the fuel rail to the spot under the seat.
Where the braided lines connect to the hard lines under the driver seat area, it leaks bad when I try to crank the motor over.

I went thru the whole process of flaring the hard lines. My flares weren't perfect but they appear fine when I pull everything apart where it leaks at the connection. I tried to retighten things and still it leaks. I was told I don't need to use anything on the threads except for lube to prevent marring. There are a couple of tiny mars from when I installed w/o lube.

What can I do to stop the leaks??

 

Use some teflon tape on the threads. If that doesn't work, you can try flaring the tubes again. Use this as a guide:
http://www.pharmacy.arizona.edu/staf...ubleFlare.html

 

Man, I was looking for that website, it's the one I initially used but couldn't find it since then. Thanks. I happened to skimp around the first time not deburring and chamfering. But looking at my first double flare, I don't understand why it leaks so bad.

I just tried re-flaring one of the tubes and for some reason, I can't get the first flare going (don't know if my tool is not clamping enough or what). I was able to get a nice-looking second flare, yet it still leaked bad on start-up.

I'll try teflon tape this next time and let you guys know what the results are. If it doesn't work again, I'll try re-flaring using all the steps.

 

Well, I tried teflon tape and re-flaring both. Still leaks I think the teflon tape helped on the smaller tube, and the smaller tube has a better double flare going. The 3/8 tube has been very difficult to create a nice flare for some reason. I think the tool that works as a vice on the tube isn't holding it well because the bubble flare (first of the two) doesn't even turn out.

Any advice?

 

My Dad had that problem too when he tried to do his brake lines. I think there are different size flaring tools, like metric and standard.

 

I've been using a tool for metric. Don't know if I have the wrong tool at this point, others are telling me that I should be using a 37* tool, not a 45* for braided an adapters. Problem is, I don't know if mine is or not. It just states that it is a double flare tool. http://www.toolking.com/performancetools_w80670.aspx

 

Green96Z, thanks again for all the help. I finally got things fixed and the car is finally back on the road again. I highly recommend anybody doing this to get compression fittings instead of going through all the work of flaring, esp. considering all of the inaccurate flaring that I went through (started out w/ a 45* tool which was a mistake, then went to a 37* which still leaked).