I've been spending the last few weeks trying to figure out why the ignition is not starting my car. I can push start the car and I even wired up a push button start in place of the cig lighter. That button for some reason no longer works. I replaced with different push button start wired to ign+ tapped into the rear defroster switch and the other wire running to the small bolt on the starter. Does not work, when it used to. I've had the starter checked and it works fine. When I touch the + from the battery to the short bolt (switch?) on the starter all I get is sparks and what feels like the 2 wires will weld together.

I'd like to fix the right way being the ignition but not sure how to go about doing it. The dashboard and everything else works fine so I don't think it is the ignition switch but again, not sure. I've looked over shoebox's site about it being that and it doesn't have those tell tale signs. Any help would be appreciated...I'd hate to take it to the dealer.

 

First here is how it should work, take a look at this schematic ref shbox.com http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_96.jpg . Ignition key supplies +12 v from pin A C2 yellow wire to the theft deterrent relay (TDR) common terminal pin 'C1' AND ALSO to either the clutch safety switch or the Park/Neutral switch (you did not list you tranny). From the applicable switch the brown wire supplies +12V to one side of the TDR coil pin C2. Then when the Body Control Module (BCM) senses the correct ignition key pellet it grounds the other side of the TDR coil pin A1 , the TDR picks and the common terminal transfers and puts +12 volts on the normally open terminal A2 purple wire to engage the starter solenoid. To test put a voltmeter +lead on the purple wire at the starter, negative lead on chassis ground, depress clutch (M6) or put into park (A4), turn key to start, if the wire does not go to +10 V to 12V with key in start position isolate the problem using the schematic.. I assume security light (BCM reading key pellet) is OK, on 5 seconds then goes off.
Now you manual starter switch problem . sort of indicates a shorted solenoid. To test .. If you jump +12 to the small terminal on the starter (solenoid) engage it should throw a spark, but not a dead short welding type. And the solenoid should click and engage the starter. If it just shorts as you say and nothing happens, take the purple wire off the terminal , try jumping the solenoid terminal (not the big starter terminal) with with a fused +12v source (20-25 amp) this should work OK to pick the solenoid. If the fuse blows and it does not engage you have short within the starter/solenoid. If it works OK then your bypass circuit is somehow shorted to ground..

 

First off, thank you so much for that very good explanation. I had a difficult time reading that schematic but you explained it very well.

Now how do I go about getting to these wires under the dash? I was able to verify the clutch switch is getting +12 when I put the key in and depress it so its not the clutch safety switch. That was the only thing I could test under the dashboard. I can't seem to find any of the other wires. Picture's or locations would be very helpful. I also can't seem to find any information as to where that Theft Deterrant Relay is at? Is it on the passenger side under dash?

I had the under dash off when I was running the 2 wires, one from the starter switch and the other straight from the battery but I didn't see anything listed as Body control or Theft Deterrent? It's a crazy wiring mess under there.

I'll go to the starter tonight and see if I get +12v to the purple wire. Been wanting to do that but need a second pair of hands to turn the key while I get under there to hold the multimeter. Hopefully my 4 year old can turn the ignition.

Thanks again.