Want to get the dual gauge pod, heres a link for what it looks like
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

and i was wondering, what are the best two gauges to get for my car...fuel pressure gauge ect...and what brand should i get & lastly, where can i get them? also, i heard there may be some that work in this pod that light up, not sure but would be cool also.

Thanks ahead of time for the help, by the way, the car is pretty much stock and dont plan on using a turbo, nos, or anything else ever...thanks

 

You can get your gauges from Summit as well. The fuel pressure gauge is a good idea, maybe a tranny temp gauge as well, especially if you decide to get a higher stall converter down the road.

 

yea, i did plan on getting a 3200 stall sometime soon so then thats what ill try and get i guess....fuel pressure and tranny temp gauges, are they hard to wire up?

 

They are not hard to install if you have a basic understanding of wiring and schematics.

 

I'd say a manual oil pressure should be in there. The stock one goes bad way too often. That and tranny temp would be good.

 

ok, there are soooo many different gauges and i dont know the difference...for example, does the fuel pressure gauge need to read 0-15 psi or 0-100psi, theres a lot of different ones. Also, if im going to put in the the dual gauge pod, will the Analog, mechanical one work, or does it have to be Analog/electrical...hers a link to one i was thinking about getting, would it work?

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

The 0-15psi gauges are usually for the carbed cars, you want the one that measures 0-100psi. I would also stick with the electrical gauges, not the mechanical ones.

 

I've always been told that for pressure guages, the mechanical ones are more accurate, but if the electrical ones were that inaccurate I'm sure you would be able to read about it or heard about it somewhere. Since your stock fuel pressure is 43.5 psi, you need to get the 0-100 range one.

 

The main issue with the mechanical gauges is that they have to come in direct contact with the item they are measuring. Considering these gauges are mounted in the interior of the car, it means that the fluids being measured are going to be routed through the interior as well. This becomes a potential issue having fuel running through the interior of the car in the case of a mechanical fuel pressure gauge.

 

I have that gage pod. I run 2 afr gages. But, I also have a fuel press/ boost mechanical gages near the center console. I had to run a high pressure isolator on the fuel delivery, and, run a plastic 1/16 tube with glycol for the mechanical fuel pressure gage. It is much more difficult to run those hard lines up near the "A" pillar dash area on the 4th gen. Also, never run the glycol line near a heat source (ie... header) or the gage will not read correct dur to the heat expansion of the glycol. I ran this line thru the Left side uel delivery port on the inner fender. I would go with an electric fuel gage on the "A" pillar.

 

Ok, so far i know i need to use the electrical gauges and the 0-100psi for my fuel pressure gauge.

Next, what are the AFR gauges?... site?

Last, so if i get the electrical i wont have to do everything that you listed above and do instructions normally come with these gauges?

I am good with electrical stuff just never did gauges before. Really just want to get them at first because they looked cool, but then realized they would also be very helpful so i want to get the right ones

 

AFR... air fuel ratio. Since I have forced induction, and, a gm PCM, I use 2 afr gages for monitor of PCM performance. Auto meter afr#1 wired thru a 2 position DPDT switch to each Bosch O2 sensor, and, a Wideband afr#2 gage (dynojet unit). Most auto meter gages come with instructions. You can buy most anything from Summit Racing. The electric gage sometimes cost more but are easy to install. If I had to do it again, I would use the electrical type in place of my mechanical fuel pressure gage.
Good luck with your Camaro. (97SS 383 - D1 MM6)

 

You don't need AFR unless you are running a wideband. It just tells you if your O2's are working and you can just scan to see that. You really should get a scanmaster. That's better than most guages you can buy.

 

Yea, i was planning on getting the scanmaster also but wanted to get the gauges for the look also, thanks everyone for all the help so far

 

See, I'm the opposite. I don't want to have a guage pod that everyone can see. I don't want it to scare anyone off.