I've got a 1994 z28 LT1 with 190k miles. It has a new fuel pump, fuel filter, distributor, cap, rotor, alternator, wires and plugs, as well as a couple new sensors. While driving home the other day at about 75mph the car suddenly lost all power, the tach dropped to 0 but all other guages continued to work, no service lights came on. Within a minute it had died and restarted 4 times, the last time it had died it would not restart and i had to pull over. i tried to starting the car and it would not turn over, only crank. After sitting for about 10 minutes the car fired right back up and didnt have any more dieing issues for that day. after i had gotten home the car sat for a couple hours and when i got back in and started it the radio does not light up and now the windows do not go up or down i checked the fuses and they are not blown. there are no engine lights on either. it now has started dying at an idle as it did to me last night but started right back up, it had bogged down once more a few minutes later but didnt die...any ideas or advice would really help. thank you!
Steve

 

first I would try a new batt. if your lucky this could fix it, the only thing I have had do this to me was a 99 jeep grand and it ended up being bad caps in the pcm. The caps had leaked and became dry then stopped working, this in turn did not supply the needed power to the pump. Did you check fuel pressure when it would not work?

 

It has a new battery and cables as well, it seems everytime i hook up that fuel pressure guage the car wont do it. im going to try to figure out a way to run the guage in to the car so i can drive with it in. Does the OBDI system store codes? because it did have a service light on for a few days on and off but hasent been on since any of this happened.

 

Yes, OBD-I stores the codes. Pull them. I suspect you may find DTC 16 for the Opti. The tach dropping to "0" would indicate the PCM is not getting the pulse signal from the Opti.

Do NOT run a mechanical fuel pressure gauge into the passenger compartment. Good way to burn the car and yourself down to the ground. Tape the gauge to the outside of the windshield so you can see it from the driver's seat.

 

yeah both good advice, fuel or oil lines inside cab = bad news they have electric fuel pressure gauges you could use I suppose. or I think the cheapest way without the ghetto taped gauge to the window would be a fuel to water or inert oil filled mech gauge if this was a long term deal. I think the reason the ses light went back out was maybe it was not getting a hard fault code or the key cycle deal( x starts without problem makes it a nuisance fault so it resets light)

 

DTC 16 doesn't turn on the SES light. But it's sometimes accompanied by other codes that do. If your engine is running, DTC 16 is not active. When the active code sets, the PCM shuts down the fuel system.

 

Ive had multiple shops here try pulling codes but nobody has been able to pull anything. It says something about not being able to find the computer. But the past 2 days the car ran just fine with no problems what so ever...so far..
Now the service engine soon light came on this morning but only after driving about 15 minutes and went off after 5.
Im curious as well if the windows not working and the radio not working could be linked to this at all? Ive checked the fuses for the windows and radio and they are not blown.
Its the least of my worries with those two problems but was curious to if they could be at all linked.

 

do you have an aftermarket alarm?

 

The power windows and the radio are powered through the "Retained Accesory Power" (RAP) module. That's what allows them to stay powered up for 10 minutes after you turn the key off, or until you open a door. I don't think that problem is going to be related to the stalling problem.

Courtesy of Shoebox:

http://shbox.com/1/rap_schematic.jpg

You've got to be able to read the codes. If they are using an OBD-I code reader, it should be able to pull active and stored codes. If it "can't connect to computer", it may be a problem with the tan data wire or the ground wire that connect to the back of the ALDL connector.

http://shbox.com/1/DLC_wiring.jpg

You could by some free scanning software and a cable to allow you to hook up a laptop, and read codes and data log the PCM. But if you have a problem with the ALDL connector, this setup won't be able to connect either.

 

No it has no alarm on it

 

I hope this helps

 

He has an LT1 V8. The component location diagram is for a 3.4L V6.

 

So the car did good for a couple of days. No problems at all, windows started working radio works, car started and drove amazing for 4 days with not a problem then this morning, i was driving down my road at about 5mph and it died on me. it would not start back up for about ten minutes. it would start up for about 2 seconds then die again i was told it could be the ignition coil and control module since they are both original for the car and its got 191k on it now. almost ready to sell this car..

 

hahaha the above post was supposed to be on the other thread.... lmao the v6 dude no start after head gasket...

 

Replaced the control module and ignition coil yesterday...had the car idleing for about ten minutes and died out on me, and took 15 minutes for it to start back up...once it did fire back up it ran awesome