Koby

So today I went out to start my car. Keyless entry worked fine, put the key in acc to roll down the windows and the drivers side gets 1/4 the way down and all power dies in the car. Voltage meter reads zero. I checked all fuses and they were all fine. So I hook up the battery to jump the car. This seems to work, but the voltage meter is up and down. I roll up my window and start the car. Starts fine, idles fine, but all the lights in the gauge are lighting up, then dimming, and the volt meter continues to go up and down.

Now a couple weeks ago I did install a electric WP. I put the +12 wire into the ignition fuse in the bay for power. I don't know if this could have messed up something in the system by drawing to much power or something. Also ever since I did the install the car will run fine, but it is very hard to start once it is hot. Although I think that problem has to do with my coil getting hot. If my coil failed all together would it completely kill the power through the whole car?

Thanks.

*update* last night when I got home the car started a little weak, but it ran. Idled and sounded fine, but you could see all the interior lights dimming/getting brighter. The longer it ran the worse the fluctuations were.

bobdec

I'd check for loose +12/Gnd battery terminals, +12v distribution block terminal on the pass wheel well and ground distribution block on pass wheel well. Put a voltmeter on your +12V terminal and ground when cranking , you should have over 8-10 volts when cranking and it should go to over 13 after it starts. Whatever you find I recommend wiring the EWP through a relay, pick the relay with ign voltage and run a fused +12V circuit through the relay to the EWP. Possibility that the EWP could be dropping the voltage on the ign circuit you tapped into causing low voltage to the ICM and coil.