Will the vortech aftercooler be any good for a YS-trim unit to push 14-15psi boost???

My goal was to reach the 680rwhp with ton of torque and I think the YS trim is better suited than the T-trim due to efficiencies and all...

I was wondering if they can work together efficiently or will it bee to much heat for the aftercooler.

Another thing is: the YS-trim brackets and ducting etc.. What needs to be fabricated? All?? Just the plate? the complete ducting?? ETC...

Thanks

 

IMHO the Vortech aftercooler would be an *enormous* restriction for a ys-trim. I had Madman modify my s-trim brackets to fit the ys. Brian also supplied the cog drive and SFI damper (ATI). Surf over to my para.noid site for pix of my plumbing arrangement (click on 1000 hp then page 4)

 

why would it be a huge restriction???

The other thing... How much power where you able to get out of the aftercooler...

Cant it be made to be bigger and flow more air??/

My highest goal is 10.xx at 130 or so.. I think its achievable with it..but i want a lot of mid range too...

Just guessing.. I thought the YS trim will have greater potential for the future...

What is that radiator you got?? looks nice...

Although the pics of the front mount are amazing.. where doyou put the front bumper absorber??? Protection up front and where does it breath the air????

LMK

Thanks

 

And I will need soon a impedance converter... got any used???

 

It's usually a little tougher for LJ to check the board as often as his email during the day. You guys can email him.

All aftercooler and intercooler are restrictive, but the cooling allows you to increase your boost or timing to give a certain amount of gain and consistency.

Another great benefit for the intercooler air to air is that this is very efficient during cruising or at the track while the aftercooler is efficient only when you throw in the ice at the track.

Then if you do plan to use ice, then instead of using the super tiny water box that comes with the LT1 aftercooler, both LJ and I went with the Vortech mustang ice box which fits where the battery sits. Some people, like Tom Bryne, have installed a much bigger ice tank in the trunk.

good luck

 

The vortech aftercooler seems too small to support the YS Trim to me.

 

I dont agree with you in that.. since the engine can cool itself with the radiators and there is no need to throw ice on the engine radiator.. So...

ALl you need is to strap some fans to the heat exchangers, radiators and yes.. use a bigger radiator.... That is it... I dont think there is more to it.. I would love to see if its possible to enlarge the intake and exhaust on the aftercooler to get a less restrictive unit.. I think I will lose 1psi or so... but remove around 60F of heat from my IATs...

I sure hope so.. honestly since my IATs are at 155-160 during the day!!!

 

?

There is no way an air/air setup will run as cool as a air/water at the track, that's a fact.

Only running ice will get the temps BELOW ambient which is the point of running ice...

My guess is that an air/air will have a hard time getting within 25F of ambient... Think about how hot stuff will get just from doing a burnout before you even do your run.

 

I will actually put some 2-4 120mm Fans that turn on with heat... That should coold down a bit better when at idle!!!

If water wasn't better then why arent cars air cooled anymore???

The thing is that if you put a heat exchanger more efficient well.. its more efficient.. but size being equal... The water system should be a better system overall...

 

Let me be clear, all things being equal I'd prefer an air/air system but for drag racing I just can't find examples of one working that well.

If you use fans to cool off the intercooler, it can run the system a bit but not how much cooler will it get if you are pushing ambient temp air over the intercooler.

With ice the goal is to be well below ambient.

Only other thing I have kicked around is to have nozzles spraying nitrous on the intercooler.

 

Ice and N2O is cheating... The water transfers heat a lot faster than air alone does... IN the end its the air that cools it down so the air/air skips that step.. but how big can you run an intercooler without killing efficiency or spool time or boost??? With the aftercooler you can use the biggest radiator possible and with a good pump no problems at all.. it will reach a point where there is no gain but... that's the idea...

 

on the street, AIR is prolly better.. simply for the fact is the water will get heat soaked(you have 2 heat exchangers, the "radiator" and the actually aftercooler.. less effcient) and the inlet temps will soar.

However, at the track you can dump in ice water.. or other chemicals and get really low temps. Local with a D1 and 700+ rw had 65degree inlel temps.. on a 85 degree day!

 

High, air/air might be more noble in your eyes, I'm responding to your cheating comment, but the reality is that your IAT's at the line might be IMHO only slightly better than if you had no intercooler at all. Your mid track IATs might be noticeably better but the air/water guy started and ended with better IATs.

 

Jordan thanks for the real example I find that helpful.

ZB told me the formula is an increase of 1% power for every 10 degree reduction in inlet temps.

Now if I had a non-intercooled YS and my IATs were constantly in the 170F range at the beginning of a run and like 220 at the end of a run, what kind of gain are we talking about?

What about in a second example, what if my air/air IATs were 155F at the beginning of the run, what might they be at the end of the run, 175F? What kind of numbers are we talking about? Or will an air/air car have LOWER IATs at the end of a run? Anyone know?

 

Well according to my logs... I can start at 160 and end up at about 187 with no intercooler and that is only one gear or 2.. not a 1/4 mile.. NO YS Trim but an Strim...

I will post on the results.. I receive my watercooler tommorrow... I will install and post results...

I think both guys will end up with better iats.. but the watercooler will be better than AIR!! why??? the water acts like a buffer so the changes are more subtle and no talking of ice or N2O... It takes time to reach thermal equilibrium or heat soak as you call it.. I expect IATs very close to ambient temp... Do you call that heat soak???

True! you have 2 exchangers... but one could be made to be smaller and loose less boost.. Water has more contact area than air (its denser/obvious) so you do not need that big of a space to transfer the heat with water... The other heat exchanger can be made as big as you can without any negative effects except pump issues and that can be solved with a bigger pump... You can reach Water temps close to ambient and cool better the intake charge... It will take longer for the water to heat it self as teh delta H evap of water is pretty high, hence its heat transfer capabilities..