I am thinking about o-ringing my block for some added security and was wondering how well copper head gaskets work. Where can I find one for an LT1. Should I just drill the approiate holes in a sbc gasket? If anyone has any other options I am open to them. I am looking to run 15#'s and up on this engine with 8.7/1 compression.

 

I would use(and do use) comedics. Think they are a better alternative for a street car..

 

who sells those gaskets and do they require any special prep work?

 

Combination motorsports! nope, no prep work.. just put 'em on.

 

The 404ci LS1 motor that I am installing in a few months will have copper gaskets.

Shop that put it together (ARE) said that it will be fine for the street...gotta be careful of detonation with copper gaskets though.

Scott

 

cool, thanks guys. I just don't want to be blowing head gaskets because I chose the wrong one. By the way Jordon, your car kicks as!!!!!!!

 

I have cometics to but I haven't started the car yet. The best part is that they can make them in nearly anythickness.

 

Would you rather be blowing up motors/pistons or head gaskets?

With a slightly weaker style headgasket, ,say a graphite/cometic versus a copper, you are allowing a "fuse" to blow. Personally i'd rather be blowing head gaskets than putting holes through pistons which is a risk you take because o-ringing with copper head gaskets seal VERY well

 

You bring up a good point, I would much rather blow a head gasket than the head or piston.

 

I used this theory but on my car the fire ring from the head gasket mangled the piston tops and cylinder walls anyways. It would have been cheaper to melt a piston than to replace all 8 since I had to go .040" over.

Another thing noone thinks about is that this "fuse" blows instantly and an engine with 15-20psi of boost that suddenly decides to fill the cooling system with cylinder pressure is fairly dangerous. In my case it blew the lower radiator hose off and soaked the windshield, fenders, dyno and most of the rest of the shop's floor. If this happened on a track no doubt I would have crashed.

 

I'm running copper gaskets with o-rings and receiver grooves on the latest buildup. I've only put a couple hundred street miles on it so far, but expect to visit the chassis dyno shop in the next week or 2.

Blackstone gave me the same "fuse" lecture that's already been batted around here. I plan to run dual widebands with big LED displays every time I go to the strip, at least until I have some confidence .

 

Well my "fuse" just let loose yesterday at the track I was running 16 psi with the turbo and it let go right after the finish line. I saw a little smoke and the car started to feel like it had a cut tire, but then the emergency crew came running with fire extinguishers in hand ready to discharge them. After they figured how to open the hood after i popped it open, i stepped out of the car to see what was going on and i saw a river of coolant running out from under the car. It was light orange and they thought that was oil. I was the first car in round 1 of eliminations, and i won too. But the car wasn't going to be to round 2... then it started to rain, and now i get to come back another day for free. BTW I was running stock Felpro replacement head gaskets and new TTY bolts. I will be using ARP bolts or studs this next time. Will the heads fit on studs while the engine is in the car?

Some questions for ya:

How much are the comedics?, i think I will try them.

What thickness should i get them in?

How thick can i get them before quench (too large) becomes a problem? I believe the stock LT1 gaskets are .049" right?

 

ARP makes head studs with an allen head fitting in the end, you could put the head on and then screw in the studs if you needed to. I paid $74 each for my gaskets but I didn't go through combination, I know they are slightly cheaper. I went with the .058" gasket since they are still cheap, the next thickness just about doubles the price.

Glad you didn't have any serious damage, it could have been alot worse.