Vortech Aftercooler...???
The 6# kit is good for about 100-110hp while the 9# will show you a 140-150hp increase. If you decide to go with the 6# now it can be upgraded later. The upgrade kit includes the Aftercooler package and a 9# pulley.
Tom
Tom
I know it's not completely applicable, but I'll post the following link as an FYI:
http://www.turboford.org/faq/ta.shtml
They tested air/air versus Vortech air/water on a 2.3 liter Ford Turbo in depth.
The Vortech intercooler lowered the charge temp from 290 deg. F to 65 deg. F (ice water) with only 0.03 psi pressure drop. On a typical 650 hp blown LT1, you might expect a 0.12 psi pressure drop. This is very low.
The air/air they tested dropped the charge temp from 290 deg. F down to 115 deg. F (compressed air blown across the outside) with a 1.60 psi pressure drop. This would equate to about 6.4 psi on a typical blown LT1, which clearly indicates this particular air/air isn't big enough for us.
All tests favored the water/air by about 30 hp on a 300 rwhp motor.
I chose a water/air for the following reasons:
- Water transmits heat much better than air, so the core can be much smaller and have less pressure drop.
- You can put ice in the reservoir to cool the charge even more. I installed a 5 gallon water reservoir in the trunk of my car and it works very well.
- It doesn't obstruct air flow to the radiator.
Mike
http://www.turboford.org/faq/ta.shtml
They tested air/air versus Vortech air/water on a 2.3 liter Ford Turbo in depth.
The Vortech intercooler lowered the charge temp from 290 deg. F to 65 deg. F (ice water) with only 0.03 psi pressure drop. On a typical 650 hp blown LT1, you might expect a 0.12 psi pressure drop. This is very low.
The air/air they tested dropped the charge temp from 290 deg. F down to 115 deg. F (compressed air blown across the outside) with a 1.60 psi pressure drop. This would equate to about 6.4 psi on a typical blown LT1, which clearly indicates this particular air/air isn't big enough for us.
All tests favored the water/air by about 30 hp on a 300 rwhp motor.
I chose a water/air for the following reasons:
- Water transmits heat much better than air, so the core can be much smaller and have less pressure drop.
- You can put ice in the reservoir to cool the charge even more. I installed a 5 gallon water reservoir in the trunk of my car and it works very well.
- It doesn't obstruct air flow to the radiator.
Mike
So it sounds like you guys like the Aftercooler. What about as far as price, is it worth it? And what about when you want to go big, will the aftercooler support 600-700hp? I don't plan on going there, but I like the idea that I could if I wanted to.
You can get an air/air IC, nitrous spray, and alcohol injection for the price of that damn aftercooler... IMO it's way to much and it's nothing great. Having the ice box is a nice advantage for sure, but for a daily driver (which your's is) you're not going to be pulling over to put fresh ice water in your tub from the fridge you keep plugged into your cigarette lighter through an ac/dc converter. It's just not happening. Yea maybe at the track but not for a daily driver.
I've run the Vortech after cooler on my new motor and the last one with good results. My intake temps are generally in the 80's, In the winter when it's cooler they are less than that. On summer days when it's over 100* the Intake temps are about 110*. The only problem with it is if you are sitting in traffic on a 100* day you will get heat soak, If you are cruising it's fine. I am not seeing any detonation, Even on the hot days so I know they work, Without one you would probably be seeing 180* plus intake temps depending on how much boost your running.
I ran an aftercooler on a daily driver and went from 280 degrees WOT IAT on a 90 degree day to a tad under 100 degrees. Excellent results.. This was with no ice cooler and a 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze. Even after more than an hour of regular driving, at WOT, I would still see under 100 degrees IAT.
Hey mike... ever thought of puting an evaporator in that tank in the trunk of yours.. that with the flip of a switch it will use the A/C to chill the water?
That way you do not need ice... just a few mins
I was thinking of doing that.. but too much $ work involved... so I decided to do the alcohol injection...
That way you do not need ice... just a few mins

I was thinking of doing that.. but too much $ work involved... so I decided to do the alcohol injection...
Actually, I have considered this, much like the new Lightning.
I decided not to because I don't want to tamper with the A/C system in the car. Every connection and valve you add is another leak path and I don't want to make the car any more problematic than it already is by adding 20+ ft. of tubing and 4 solenoid valves.
Plus, with fuel injection, impedence converter, Ignition box, intercooler with water pump, supercharger, dual fuel pumps - one boost triggered, there's enough complication there without adding any more.
Mike
I decided not to because I don't want to tamper with the A/C system in the car. Every connection and valve you add is another leak path and I don't want to make the car any more problematic than it already is by adding 20+ ft. of tubing and 4 solenoid valves.
Plus, with fuel injection, impedence converter, Ignition box, intercooler with water pump, supercharger, dual fuel pumps - one boost triggered, there's enough complication there without adding any more.
Mike
I agree with you!!!!! jaja.. I just ordered my alcohol injection kit last night...
My father says.. that car has more tricks than batmans belt or even james bonds car...
JAJAJAJA
I always reply.. but I still run on pump gas
My father says.. that car has more tricks than batmans belt or even james bonds car...
JAJAJAJA
I always reply.. but I still run on pump gas


