Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

various mods vs. forced induction

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Old Nov 12, 2003 | 02:27 AM
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various mods vs. forced induction

what's the cheapest a turbo or supercharger will cost installed? I'm running a 14.6@96 right now on a really crappy track. I'm looking at spending about $1400 on gears, tc, and cutout, which I'm told should cut a full second, so I'd be around mid 13's. what could I run if I got forced induction INSTEAD? I'm guessing it would be in the $4000 range, but let me know!
Old Nov 12, 2003 | 02:47 AM
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Old Nov 12, 2003 | 06:18 AM
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Originally posted by GhostZ
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No you didn't
Old Nov 12, 2003 | 06:21 AM
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He wanted to know the cheapest....not the best.
Old Nov 12, 2003 | 06:24 AM
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Originally posted by InjectedSS
No you didn't
Yes he did. lol.

You can attain your goals with almost all your money to spare with a 100 shot of n20 and some drag radials.
Old Nov 12, 2003 | 08:11 AM
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There's other things you should do when you go forced induction. Fuel system and suspension/traction are the two that should be addressed first.
Old Nov 15, 2003 | 02:36 PM
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Originally posted by GhostZ


He wanted to know the cheapest....not the best.
Oh yea HAHAHAHA
Old Nov 15, 2003 | 02:49 PM
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Originally posted by GhostZ
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I cant help it, but that hell is this? Running all that tubing to the front of the car....All that exhaust energy lost....pumping oil back to the pan....Oh and best of all the sight of a turbo from the rear of the car; I can see it now damn look at that turbo only 4 bolts and its mine
Old Nov 15, 2003 | 08:18 PM
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LOL come to your car and find your turbo missing... that would be some ****.
Old Nov 15, 2003 | 11:34 PM
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I think you can get a non intercooled, non polished P1-SC kit for $2500-3000 but you'll have to install it yourself. My Vortech wasn't hard to install, but I did pay a professional to tap the oil pan and install the fuel pump.

You guys are right, that would suck to loose a turbo cause some punk took 10 minutes to unbolt it from your car. Can you really see the STS kit when the car is on the ground? I would think they wouldn't be visible as long as the car had ground fx.
Old Nov 17, 2003 | 03:27 PM
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Re: various mods vs. forced induction

Originally posted by Detroit808
what's the cheapest a turbo or supercharger will cost installed? I'm running a 14.6@96 right now on a really crappy track. I'm looking at spending about $1400 on gears, tc, and cutout, which I'm told should cut a full second, so I'd be around mid 13's. what could I run if I got forced induction INSTEAD? I'm guessing it would be in the $4000 range, but let me know!
I get nervous when I see "cheapest" mentioned in the context of forced induction. If you want to knock off a second or more at the track csheaply and relatively safely, invest in a nitrous kit. Don't think of a SC or a turbo as cheap, you will be very dissapointed when you have to rebuild your motor.

Rich Krause
Old Nov 17, 2003 | 04:38 PM
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sleeperz28....LOL, totally agree with you, on top of that, no intercooler.....100ft of piping wouldn't cool that air at high boost levels....lol

Jose
Old Nov 18, 2003 | 05:43 AM
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I dunno, seems to me those people that do have the STS kit seem to be happy with it...?
Old Nov 19, 2003 | 01:34 AM
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STS's FAQs on their website pretty much covered the primary questions that came up in the 20+ page thread here. Explanations with numbers are included. The kit is what it is, and it made the power it did with the modifications that the engine had.
You cant deny its origionality and its current uniqueness among our cars.

people takeing the turbo is something that i would never have concidered.......i'm sure theres a way to hide it better and seccure it in a way that it cant be disconnected simply

the amount of rage i would feel if something like that happend................i'm sure i'd bust at least one organ
Old Nov 19, 2003 | 04:48 AM
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personally, I'm seriously considering the STS turbo kit as I have no interest in relocating stuff around in my engine bay for FI, but I think I would build a shroud around it so it would be harder to remove and more protected against water damage...I know the FAQ says water cooling shouldn't be an issue, but I also know that 1200* is approaching the critical temperature for some metals, and cooling it at that temperature would make it very hard and brittle, possibly causing it to crack under stress. I think while doing that I would make the shroud cover the nicely accessible bolt holes too...or make it look like a muffler



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