Roadie

I had run a valve cover breather on my stock engine with a blower, but I still managed to get front and rear main seal leaks. (Granted, that stock engine had a ton of miles and the new engine will have a lot less blow-by, but I'd still like to plan ahead to stop from replacing seals down the road.)

I'm finally finishing up my turbo install and thought about something that I saw on my turbo diesel truck... There's a crankcase depression regulator valve that's connected between the valve cover and the turbo inlet. It allows the turbo to pull some vacuum on the crank case, but not pull too much vacuum and suck seals in. It also has a specific way of flow and mounting to stop any oil from getting past the CDR valve.

Any thoughts on running this kind of valve between the turbo and valve cover on a LT1?

markinkc69z

I think its a good idea, very resourceful.

97SprChrgd383

You will have to let me know where you can pick one of those up at. I need to do that. I have some blow by on my car.

tubby

what about just running a vacuum pump?

blown3rdgen

Ford electric vacuum pump worked for me.

Matt

97SprChrgd383

Yeah, but you have to pay over $300 for one. Is that about right?

LittleRedZ

I run the MR. Gasket Crank Case Evac. KIt it has two breathers that have hoses connect to them hoses go down to the headers where you drill holes and weld metal tubes and connect the hoses. the exhaust gas creates vacum and sucks decently right out of the valve covers. Works very well, i had the same issue as you guys before and its only $30 out of jeggs and about 5 dollars for some heater hose from pep boys

Roadie

Here's where I get all my (slow POS) 6.5L TD parts:
http://www.ssdieselsupply.com/produc...tor_Valve.html

As far as the exhaust setup and vacuum pump ideas are concerned, there's tons of ways to suck pressure out, but I also don't want to suck oil oul. There's no reason for me to install an electric vacuum pump when the turbo inlet is already such a good source of vacuum.

What made me think about the CDR valve is that it regulates vacuum so you don't suck in seals from too much vacuum and it stops oil from getting through.

The exhaust idea also came to mind, but I don't know how the hose would hold up to turbo heat.

-vellu

How about airpump inlet side to suck pressure out???

LittleRedZ

its right next to my headers, as long as it dosent touch it should be just fine, also the breathers have foam like material inside so you not sucking oil out.
Sounds like you guys are trying to do this the hard way, this set up has been proven and its cheap.
good luck though

OBE1 95Z28

If you're referring to the stock electic air pump used to provide air to heat up the cats, it only runs for the first 2 minutes of driving. You also wouldn't want to pump oxygenated air into the exhaust system when you're in closed loop as it will screw up your air/fuel ratio (cause wrong O2 sensor readings).

snorkelface

Would this type of system mess with the MAF since it's sucking out metered air that the computer thinks is going to the engine?

-vellu

Just an idea... and BAD one

LittleRedZ

It sucks out of valve covers computer cant monitor that, so no it wont mess with your mass air. You going to need to drill a few holes in your valve covers, they supply rubber gromets and these "breathers" go into the valve covers, they dont suck that hard but plenty enough not to have positive crank case pressure. I ran 18#s last year with no problems. My friend runs over 20#s on his lt1 and he had breathers i belive before untill this year he blew out every possible seal out of the engine at the track and converted to the same set up i have. Its a very simple effective method.

leadfoot94

Here's what I did.

http://www.steeda.com/store/-catalog/555-3710.htm

Connected a tube from the passenger valve cover to the intake tube of the turbo, and put this in-between.