Trying to get 700-900hp w/o any major engine changes will give your engine a major change.

If you want to run this type of power, you are looking at significant items:
Forged crank
H-beam rods
Forged low compression pistons

My Eagle rotating assembly (above parts w/ bearings & rings) was $1500

I think the labor to prepare my stock block (splayed 4 bolt mains, new caps, align hone mains, bore cylinders for 383, clearance rods, etc.) was around $1000-1500 (it has been a while). (2500)

Rough prices:
Better heads (ported): $1600 (4100)
Cam: $200 (4300)
Ignition system: $600 (4900)
Intake: $200 (5100)
Gaskets: $100 (5200)
Headers & cat-back (coated): $900 (6100)
Plug wires: $100 (6200)
Oiling system (pan/pump/windage tray): $500 (6700)
Valve covers: $200 (6900)
Fuel system: $300 (7200)
Injectors: $500 (7700)

etc., etc.

The other "little" stuff adds up quick, like oil cooler, braided SS hose & fittings. I think I had close to $8K in my 383 project w/o any power adder/wallet drainer . I recall an ad in Chevy High Performance for Golen engines & their 400hp long block (no accessories) was over $6K.

You can shop & save some $, but the bottom line is you need to properly prepare your motor for that level of power.

 

Ok, here's the deal. . . there are 3 turbo kits in production right now:

PTK- High quality kit with potential up to 1100 hp, but $6000.
TTI- Fair quality kit, but limited in hp potential (maybe 500 hp max), $4600.
STS- Mounts the turbo at the rear. Controversial because of definite pro's and con's to the rear mounting arrangement. With kit-available turbo's, maybe 600 hp max. $3600.

NONE of these are twin turbo, NOR would they be easy to convert to twins.

And NO power adder will make 700 - 900 hp without MAJOR engine changes, reliably. People have made 700 hp on the stock short block, but you can count the number of full-throttle pulls on one hand before it blew up.

People (including myself) have been successful in fabricating homemade single and twin turbo kits, but he fabrication skill and time required are pretty extensive.

If you can't afford the turbo kit and major changes to the engine, either give up on 700 - 900 hp or sell off some of those other cars until you can afford it.

Mike

 

is the list that live for ta's made enough stuff to support the 1100hp the ptk is making, with instead 396 engine, and is the lt4 camshaft good enough or what kind of cam would i need?
thanks

 

Why is it when everyone wants to compare prices of a PTK kit to an STS kit, they compare a loaded down PTK kit w/ intercooler w/ your based out, non-intercooled STS kit? Of course the STS kit will be cheaper, it doesn't have nearly the components.

Though I won't post the vendor, as it isn't a board vendor, I found a GEN I LT1 PTK kit w/ air-water intercooler and T70 turbo complete for $3900 (I'm sure board vendors that carry PTK would match/beat that price, as this was a simple price listed on a website, not a special sale/GP that a vendor wouldn't be allowed to post). Just because PTK sells their kit for a certain price doesn't mean other vendors don't sell their products for significantly less.

Which puts me back to the point of why buy an STS kit?? You really aren't saving much money (if any at all when all is said and done). So what if it is a little easier to install; this is a major mod, something that you SHOULD take your time and do right. The fact that you could re-sell your headers for a couple hundred bucks can be a plus too.

 

I'll cite my answer to this question-

In my case it is due to the fact that the PTK design requires removal of the driver side cooling fan and replacement with a less effective pusher fan. I'm in S. Florida, 95 degrees & high humidity in the summer (AC removal NOT an option ). Additionally, you are now adding additional exhaust system heat in an already packed engine bay (not to mention trying to squeeze that thing in there, I ran into several engineering "challenges" with the P600B ). I had a similar problem when I put a 383 into a 1984 RX7- too much heat in a small engine bay & nowhere for it to go- I could have louvered the hood, but this did not appeal to me. When I had the P600B & FMIC in place, I modded the cooling fans by replacing the stock units with thinner 12" Perma-Cool fans (allegedly rated at 1650 CFM each ) along with a front pusher fan ala PTK and this was a disaster- 240 degrees water temp & climbing W/O the AC on. This was with a Be-Cool radiator BTW.

If I were to add a turbo to my Durango, it would be the front mount style simply due to the fact that there is a huge amount of room in the engine bay and the truck has a large radiator & open front end for lots of airflow through an IC as well as oil coolers.

The Corvair used a "rear mount" turbo from the factory and I have planned a twin turbo rear mount for it when I rebuild the motor.

I appreciate those that think outside the box and the STS kit addressed my concerns and needs for the TA. There is now ample documentation that their design will perform adequately at my desired power level, so this is why I'm going with an STS style install.

That having been said, if you can fit & use a PTK and if as stated above you shop, you can find a great deal and end up with exactly what you need or want.

 

Huh?

Maybe you should take this one step at a time. Start small and work your way up. There is a TREMENDOUS amount of knowledge that must be gained before attempting a project as complex and involved as a turbo installation. Maybe start with a cam swap, then a head swap. If you still want the extra power, add a turbo, but aim for 500 hp. If you manage to get that far, consider upgrading to 700 later. There is alot to learn in the areas of ignition, fuel system, computer tuning, oiling, intercooling, drivetrain, etc. . . before trying for 900 hp without MAJOR engine modifications.

Mike

 

It sounds to me like you need to sit down and evaluate what you want from your vehicle. 700-900 horsepower goal, the stock shortblock, and don't want to spend cash is completely unrealistic.

1) Inexpensive
2) Reliable
3) Fast

Pick 2. You can't have all 3.

1 & 2 = Keep it stock.
1 & 3 = Nitrous or boost, but it won't last forever.
2 & 3 = Whatever you want, but it don't come cheap.

 

can you pm me where i can get that PTK kit for that cheap?
thanks