Turbo/Supercharger question...probably been beat'n to death...
07-01-2004, 10:30 PM
#1
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Turbo/Supercharger question...probably been beat'n to death...
A few questions actually...
Turbo/Supercharger, which is better for LS1's? why?
Say I just bought a regular pro-charger...would I need to forge the internals or anything before I install it while just running 6 PSI? I would probably only open it up 4 or 5 times a month, how long would it last me for that amount of time before a rebuild would be in order?
How much does it affect gas milage/emissions?
Turbo/Supercharger, which is better for LS1's? why?
Say I just bought a regular pro-charger...would I need to forge the internals or anything before I install it while just running 6 PSI? I would probably only open it up 4 or 5 times a month, how long would it last me for that amount of time before a rebuild would be in order?
How much does it affect gas milage/emissions?
07-01-2004, 11:21 PM
#2
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Neither should affect gas milage too much if you can keep your foot out of it.
Neither setup is particularly "better" for an LS1. They just each have different characteristics as far as when the boost comes in. Plus each system has their pro's and con's... do a search on turbo vs superchager.
The Procharger will be easier to install if you are going to do it yourself.
LS1's have problems with procharger's belts slipping if you try much more than 8psi... doesn't matter now, but might be a hassle in the future.
No one can guarantee how long it will last, but as long as you get it tuned good you should be realatively safe with the boost levels you are talking about. Rob Raymer was putting down 800rwhp thru a 100k mi LS1 for a while, so you should be ok in the 450-500 range.
Neither setup is particularly "better" for an LS1. They just each have different characteristics as far as when the boost comes in. Plus each system has their pro's and con's... do a search on turbo vs superchager.
The Procharger will be easier to install if you are going to do it yourself.
LS1's have problems with procharger's belts slipping if you try much more than 8psi... doesn't matter now, but might be a hassle in the future.
No one can guarantee how long it will last, but as long as you get it tuned good you should be realatively safe with the boost levels you are talking about. Rob Raymer was putting down 800rwhp thru a 100k mi LS1 for a while, so you should be ok in the 450-500 range.
07-02-2004, 12:21 AM
#3
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I'm just wanting 6 - 7 PSI. Something to liven it up a little.
Would it be better for the motor with a power adder if I did a rebuild with forged stuff (still not all sure what all that means) or just get a new motor altogether? I have about 223K miles on the current block so I'm defintaly going to do one of the two before I start thinking about adding any kind of power adder.
Would it be better for the motor with a power adder if I did a rebuild with forged stuff (still not all sure what all that means) or just get a new motor altogether? I have about 223K miles on the current block so I'm defintaly going to do one of the two before I start thinking about adding any kind of power adder.
07-02-2004, 01:42 AM
#4
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Originally posted by Meccadeth
I'm just wanting 6 - 7 PSI. Something to liven it up a little.
Would it be better for the motor with a power adder if I did a rebuild with forged stuff (still not all sure what all that means) or just get a new motor altogether? I have about 223K miles on the current block so I'm defintaly going to do one of the two before I start thinking about adding any kind of power adder.
I'm just wanting 6 - 7 PSI. Something to liven it up a little.
Would it be better for the motor with a power adder if I did a rebuild with forged stuff (still not all sure what all that means) or just get a new motor altogether? I have about 223K miles on the current block so I'm defintaly going to do one of the two before I start thinking about adding any kind of power adder.
07-02-2004, 02:03 AM
#5
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Originally posted by slimdawson
You should build the motor you have for boost(forged rods, pistons, etc). I have heard of the stock LS1 cranks handling 800 hp so that should be good to go.
You should build the motor you have for boost(forged rods, pistons, etc). I have heard of the stock LS1 cranks handling 800 hp so that should be good to go.
07-02-2004, 02:05 AM
#6
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With 200k+ on the motor, a little freshening definately wouldn't hurt. Good forged pistons and rings would be a start. New, forged rods and crank would be even more help if you've got the $$. A blower cam wouldn't be a bad idea if you do all that. Plus the trans and rear may need a little work if they also have alot of miles.
07-02-2004, 04:01 PM
#7
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Originally posted by Meccadeth
But the actual block should be fine then? Don't have to mess with that any?
But the actual block should be fine then? Don't have to mess with that any?
07-06-2004, 11:26 AM
#8
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When you think about buying this kit and running 6-8psi your going to need your going to need supporting mods(fuel system,clutch or trans, 12bolt ~ if you want to run sticky tires,dyno tune) Which can add up between 1500 and 4k real quick.
The stock LS1 shortblock is stronger than the LT1's by a lot, the dyno numbers they hold stock are nuts. But if you have more than 60k on a motor I would rebuild it before installing a blower, unless you didn't care if it blew up. So if you looking to just to give it some more go I would bore it just enough to clean up the out round cylinders, ten or twenty over. Get forged pistons and good bolts,bearing,rings. I would have your crank and rods inspected and re-use them. The rebuild should cost around 2k give or take a few but then you will have the peace of mind that it's not going to go on ya. oh ya, a cam and springs would add 30hp more for 4-500 hundred. After that you'll be good for 550rwhp.
The stock LS1 shortblock is stronger than the LT1's by a lot, the dyno numbers they hold stock are nuts. But if you have more than 60k on a motor I would rebuild it before installing a blower, unless you didn't care if it blew up. So if you looking to just to give it some more go I would bore it just enough to clean up the out round cylinders, ten or twenty over. Get forged pistons and good bolts,bearing,rings. I would have your crank and rods inspected and re-use them. The rebuild should cost around 2k give or take a few but then you will have the peace of mind that it's not going to go on ya. oh ya, a cam and springs would add 30hp more for 4-500 hundred. After that you'll be good for 550rwhp.
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