Tubing came off my front mount 2-core and took my MAF, bypass valve and intake tubing with it. I'm sick of having my tubes come apart. I even had t-bolt clamps on it this time.

Since I have to buy a new bypass and I'm going to move my MAF to the pressurized side, could I add a BOV just as easy? I have access to plenty of metal working equipment so I'm not concerned about the construction. Does it matter what side of the MAF I put the BOV?

ATI P600B at 8# on stock motor

 

Did you flare the ends of the tubing?

My front mount relocated intercooler took 8#'s of boost just fin but didn't take kindly to 15#'s till after I flared all the tubing, scuffed up the metal and made the hoses a little gummier with laquer thinner and seing how I didn't have any T-bolt clamps I double clamped it and it holds together (knock on wood)


I would put the BOV / By pass valve in between the throttle body and the MAF.

Marc

 

I would put the BOV / By pass valve in between the throttle body and the MAF.

Marc.

I might consider putting either the BOV and/or the bypass BEFORE the MAF so the that any air is discharged before the MAF "sees" it. Unless to route it back into the intake stream.

 

I agree with this, and would do it this way as long as it is convenient, though it shouldn't matter much either way, as the injectors won't be firing much when you are off the throttle.

 

It would be much easier for me to put the BOV before the MAF. I have the ATI chrome solid intake tract between the throttle body and the headlight.

Is there any reason why I shouldn't put the BOV between the discharge of the blower and the inlet of the intercooler?

On the bottom hard tube.
http://www.geocities.com/marc94z/tubing2.jpg

 

Can't even look at my own site thanks to Geo$hitties so I'm not sure which picture you're posting.

Brett (SCZ28) mounted his like this and it worked well for him

http://members.aol.com/eplbrc/Finish...ercooler10.jpg

other pictures are at http://members.aol.com/eplbrc/Finished_Intercooler/

 

You can cut and paste the link but that's the pipe I was talking about. Is his MAF too close to that bend? I was under the impression it should be on the longest/straightest section of tubing.

 

Oh....that picture

That angle tube came in my ATI kit and that is pretty much how they have you route it.

The silver tube just after the grey flex tube is the tube that connects the by-pass valve attached to the upper tube coming out of the intercooler.

Back in the day, Brady did his the same way
http://www.turbocharged.net/intercooler-relocation/

The ATI install manual is located in his pics page.

My new setup does not recycle the boost, I put a K&N filter on the end.

Marc

 

I'm sorry, I wasn't clear. The first picture you posted where the MAF is located between the intercooler outlet and the hole near the headlight (not yours or Brady's).

BTW, I designed my tubing based upon the pictures from Brady's and your site. (that doesn't seem like proper english )

 

FWIW, I’ve solved hoses blowing off temporarily on short notice by spraying them down with some hairspray and assembling them, they stick together then. But long term the second best thing that I’ve found is to cut a couple of grooves around the ends of the tubes so that when you clamp the hose down on them the pressure forces the rubber into the grooves and they can’t come apart. I usually do it with a dremel with 2 cutting wheels chucked up on it at once (or a wizzer wheel if there’s room to work). I’ve found that this works better then flaring/beading, and should be plenty for your low boost setup.

If you need the ultimate then you can use weld on tabs with a bolt through them so it’s physically impossible for the tubes to separate enough to come out of the hose unless something breaks.

What happened to the old bypass?

 

Where to put the MAF? Well i've had it both ways, Post MAF, and pre MAF. I guess it depends on the BOV. When i had mine post MAF i had a GReddy Type R BOV and it had an adjustable spring. I turned it up so it would only relieve when decelerating. Now I have a Turbonetics BOV and it doesn't have an adjustable spring. It is mounted inbetween the Turbo and the ATI intercoolers. It likes to lift while under mild acceleration and then deceleration, such as having the cruise on and going up a hill on the highway. This BOV would probably not work well post MAF. So like i said depends on the BOV. I had no problems with the GReddy one FWIW.

Bill

 

I've heard of the hair spray trick. I used Bulldog adhesion promoter (similar to light spray glue) on the tube that blew off. The catch is that I had taken that tube off and reclamped it the night before without spraying more glue. I was sure the clamp was tight though.

When the tubing came off the car I ran over it and broke the vaccum fitting on the bypass rendering it useless.

I've also thought of flanging the tubes but I'm not so sure I want all of that stress on the compressor. It sure would be nice to run WOT without worrying about my tubes coming apart. So far EVERY connection (except 1) has come apart and I only have about 40-50 miles with the blower on the car. I thought t-bolt clamps were the solution.

This project has been a nightmare. I've got my eye on an LS1 nearby so you might find the blower for sale soon.

 

>>
I thought t-bolt clamps were the solution.
>>

Are you using the good clamps already and they are still coming apart? When I used this clamps, my tubing don't come off anymore.

If you don't want to do the weld taps, you can have someone weld a bead circle at all the ends of the tubing that you think may come off. This will allow the clamps to hold them tighter.

Secondly, you are blowing tubes off perhaps your bypass is not working sufficiently or working at all?

Don't get too discourage, a little more time you will be smoking the LS1.

 

My bypass did seem to stick but I can't remember if it was fully open or fully closed.

I'll have a bead welded around the tubes when I make them again. Thanks for the help.