Third gen procharger fuel help
Third gen procharger fuel help
First some background:
I purchased an '88 iroc with a 305tpi, 5-speed and procharger p600b with a 13psi pulley. I bought it knowing that the fuel pumps wouldn't prime and now that the car is home I'm trying to diagnose the issue.
With the key in the "on" position nothing happens. After cranking a couple times something primed out back(i was working alone so im not sure which pump was priming) and then started spraying fuel out of a leaky hose so that ended the night. Today I went out and directed the leaky hose into a fuel container in order to try and empty the tank. Now with the key "on" and cranking nothing primes.
The individual I bought the car off of believes it to be a wiring issue so can anyone give me an idea where to start looking for problems?
Also, I was contemplating doing something like a single or double walbro 255 in-tank and eliminating the fmu and auxiliary pump. Any thoughts on that?
I purchased an '88 iroc with a 305tpi, 5-speed and procharger p600b with a 13psi pulley. I bought it knowing that the fuel pumps wouldn't prime and now that the car is home I'm trying to diagnose the issue.
With the key in the "on" position nothing happens. After cranking a couple times something primed out back(i was working alone so im not sure which pump was priming) and then started spraying fuel out of a leaky hose so that ended the night. Today I went out and directed the leaky hose into a fuel container in order to try and empty the tank. Now with the key "on" and cranking nothing primes.
The individual I bought the car off of believes it to be a wiring issue so can anyone give me an idea where to start looking for problems?
Also, I was contemplating doing something like a single or double walbro 255 in-tank and eliminating the fmu and auxiliary pump. Any thoughts on that?
thanks I got a bunch of info on thirdgen that should help me get it running. As for fuel will a single 255 support 500whp? right now the car only makes 390 at the wheels but i have a forged 350 in the works that should make about 500 at the same boost(assuming the fuel system is up to it).
There is a fuel pump relay at the firewall in the engine compartment closest to the fender. It is square and the other relay's(maf, maf burnoff) are round.
Because of age, the wires on the connector in the harness-part of the relay get corroded and sometime don't connect well. Pull off the relay and make sure the fat orange wire is still intact. That is the 12v feed from the battery.
There is also a fuel-pressure/oil pressure back-up switch above the oil filter screwed into the block, incase the fuel pump relay doesn't work. When you crank the motor and the switch sees more than 8 or so psi, it will trigger the fuel pump relay.
It sounds to me like you have some bad wiring somewhere. You will have to get a helms manual or chiltons and using the wireing diagrams trace the power wire and check for voltage. You can apply 12 volts at the aldl terminal under the dash to directly power the fuel pump to see if it's good or not also.
Because of age, the wires on the connector in the harness-part of the relay get corroded and sometime don't connect well. Pull off the relay and make sure the fat orange wire is still intact. That is the 12v feed from the battery.
There is also a fuel-pressure/oil pressure back-up switch above the oil filter screwed into the block, incase the fuel pump relay doesn't work. When you crank the motor and the switch sees more than 8 or so psi, it will trigger the fuel pump relay.
It sounds to me like you have some bad wiring somewhere. You will have to get a helms manual or chiltons and using the wireing diagrams trace the power wire and check for voltage. You can apply 12 volts at the aldl terminal under the dash to directly power the fuel pump to see if it's good or not also.
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dbusch22
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Oct 31, 2016 11:09 AM



