Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

Supercharging my z28

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Old May 2, 2010 | 05:14 PM
  #1  
TM2S3's Avatar
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Supercharging my z28

Hello,
I currently have 93 z28 with a stock bottom end, and I was wondering what it would take to saftley supercharge my car.
Thanks

My current mods are: AI's 226/234 cam, afr 180cc heads, loudmouth exhaust, hooker lt headers, lucas 42lb injectors, 58mm tb, edlebrock intake, and a tci 3400 converter.
Old May 3, 2010 | 11:53 AM
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From: Chattanooga, Tennessee
I think most people on here are going to tell you that "stock bottom end" and "safely" shouldn't be in the same sentence. In any case, I would recommend reading the "sticky" in this forum entitled "Forced induction and the LT1". It has a lot of good information. Do you have any idea as to what your compression ratio is or what combustion chamber size you have in the AFR heads?

To answer your question, a supercharger kit (ATI, Vortech) and either an intercooler or water/methanol injection.

Last edited by David94TA; May 3, 2010 at 11:59 AM.
Old May 4, 2010 | 12:51 AM
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With the stock pistons, there is no "safely". There is only "how long 'till KABOOM".
Old May 4, 2010 | 02:23 AM
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yep stock LT1 and boost is a garunteed death for the motor, but id still do it, and it may last a long time if you dont pound the car relentlesly. id go with a ATI procharger though... I'm in love with my F1A... you can start off with a P1SC and then upgrade when you go to a bigger motor, the F1A shares the same bracket as the P1SC and the D1SC.
Old May 4, 2010 | 10:10 PM
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These heads feature a 55cc to 65cc combustion chamber with a 64cc exhaust port and a 3/4" thick head deck (ideal for nitrous or blower applications). Standard valves are lightweight 8mm 2.020 intake and 1.600 exhaust with AFR’s hardened ductile iron interlocking valve seats.
I'm not sure what my compression is at. Would all I need to do is upgrade my pistons?
Old May 7, 2010 | 12:42 AM
  #6  
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I got around to reading the sticky, and it looks like I would spend a lot more money than I could right now. Ill probably just get a nitrous kit instead.
Thanks for the help
Old May 8, 2010 | 11:31 PM
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Do the math for a rebuild, blower, fuel system, rearend and add 50%. Things get expensive quick.
Old May 9, 2010 | 07:02 AM
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You could prol run 4-6 lbs of intercooled boost without much issue. The problem arises when people get addicted to it and try to push the limits. You will really enjoy the added power boost but it will get boring after awhile and you will be wanting more- ask anyone running boost and they will tell you the same thing.

Keep in mind to safely run nitrous you are prol looking at a grand- sure you could buy a $500 kit and run it, but I would get other safety gear to help you keep an eye on this to try and prevent your motor from becoming a big paperweight.
Old May 12, 2010 | 12:06 AM
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4lbs of intercooled boost at best would be 75hp. Whats the point of running a blower for 75 hp. A good heads/cam setup would make more, more reliable, not going to blow up any minute, etc....Catch my drift.

Sell those AFR 180cc heads/Edelbrock intake. Take the 1000-1500 and grab a set of stock casting/intake. send them to AI to be ported. 200cc heads/intake. 230/238 cam, and if that TCI stall is not performing ditch it for a 3600 vig/yank.

You'll pop 500-850 for the 200cc heads/intake.
Sell your cam, buy the new one, loss of 75.
Sell your stall, buy 3600 vig, loss 250.

So for around 900-1400 you could pick up the almost the same HP na, and with the better stall you would put it to the ground.

Now if you were going to build a forged 355/383 and run 12lbs it would be another story. but for what you are looking it the NA route will make the most sense.
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