Which supercharger to get
Which supercharger to get
I have a 97Z28 and would like to supercharge it. It has 60k on the odometer. I was thinking of a ATI procharger but which one out there is the easiest to install, makes good numbers and is reliable? Thanks for the help.
Re: Which supercharger to get
ATI or vortech or both good reliable options. If you go vortech than get an aftercooler. The ATI system will get you in the supercharged door for less but the vortech with aftercooler will make more power. Both entry units can be tweaked to get over 450-500 rwhp with a modifed engine, headers, tuning etc. I dont know what the max ATI number is but I have gotten 540rwhp with a pullied up S-trim and aftercooler. My friend jeff put down around 480hp with a P600b and a bottom mount air 2 air cooler. BTW jeff has an auto and I am stick. On your stock bottom end limit yourself to 8-9 psi of intercooled boost, 6lbs without an intercooler. The factory pistons are weak when it comes to blowers. A quick rebuild with forged pistons and your motor should last over the 100k mark. My motor had 5-6psi for 65K and it was toast, ring langs were cracked on five pistons and I had tons of blow by. It was probably toast after 35K but I didnt have the money for a rebuild. Like I said the pistons are a big weak link, All LT1's will need rebuilt after blower use on factory pistons.
Re: Which supercharger to get
Originally Posted by Coop1
So is this a good thing to do Flip? Or should I go a different direction. Thanks for the reply also.
Stock LT1 + Boost = Boom
I suggest if you don't plan on building up your bottom end you should just do Heads/Cam
Re: Which supercharger to get
Originally Posted by Coop1
Hey cop head/cam equals dyno tune. Here in El Paso there is no one who can even tune much less dyno tune. With a supercharger without tuning the car will still run ok.
Are you nuts? You need a Dyno tune if you put a supercharger kit on an LT1. You will blow up your motor in a heartbeat with the stock tune.
Re: Which supercharger to get
Boost + detonation = hurt motor.
You should seek quality intercooled boost that will control the charge temperature and thereby increase power output while staving off detonation. The type off charge cooling you pick should be based upon your intended use of the car. If its a performance street car, which I'll assume it is, hen you should seek an intercooler design that will provide consistent cool charge temperatures over several cycles of high load. An air to air unit will provide this as it has less thermal "inertia". The intercooler will heat up ,exchange heat to the passing air and cool off quickly when off boost. An air to water unit has more thermal inertia and will heat up slower but hold that heat in the water longer thereby raising charge temperatures over the first boosted use if not given the appropriate time to cool off. The air to water unit also increases the complexity of the system and potential for some type of system failure.
Air to water intercoolers a good for "one-shot" usage, such as organized drag racing where there is sufficient down time to cool off or replace the cooling medium. They also offer the potential to cool the charge below ambient with ice water in a competition setup.
While the company I work for really pioneed intercooled supercharged boost on street applications the reason for our use of air to air units is straightforward. An air to air unit features consistent charge temperatures run to run as is typical of a performance street vehicle. This consistent boost temp and charge density allows you and I to extract more power from an application due to being able to tune for more power than you can with an air to water street application. An air to water unit must be tuned for a higher charge temperature and lower density to account for the heating of the charge coolant to keep the engine out of detonation. So you can deduce that the higher temp equals less oxygen in the cylinder due to lower density and the higher temp will generally detonate sooner with a given ignition advance.
Please understand that I am merely pointing out the differences of various types of systems for you to consider. Both manufactuers can and do make serious power. I am biased towards our approach because I feel it is superior on a very hot performing street application and its implementation is simpler.
You should seek quality intercooled boost that will control the charge temperature and thereby increase power output while staving off detonation. The type off charge cooling you pick should be based upon your intended use of the car. If its a performance street car, which I'll assume it is, hen you should seek an intercooler design that will provide consistent cool charge temperatures over several cycles of high load. An air to air unit will provide this as it has less thermal "inertia". The intercooler will heat up ,exchange heat to the passing air and cool off quickly when off boost. An air to water unit has more thermal inertia and will heat up slower but hold that heat in the water longer thereby raising charge temperatures over the first boosted use if not given the appropriate time to cool off. The air to water unit also increases the complexity of the system and potential for some type of system failure.
Air to water intercoolers a good for "one-shot" usage, such as organized drag racing where there is sufficient down time to cool off or replace the cooling medium. They also offer the potential to cool the charge below ambient with ice water in a competition setup.
While the company I work for really pioneed intercooled supercharged boost on street applications the reason for our use of air to air units is straightforward. An air to air unit features consistent charge temperatures run to run as is typical of a performance street vehicle. This consistent boost temp and charge density allows you and I to extract more power from an application due to being able to tune for more power than you can with an air to water street application. An air to water unit must be tuned for a higher charge temperature and lower density to account for the heating of the charge coolant to keep the engine out of detonation. So you can deduce that the higher temp equals less oxygen in the cylinder due to lower density and the higher temp will generally detonate sooner with a given ignition advance.
Please understand that I am merely pointing out the differences of various types of systems for you to consider. Both manufactuers can and do make serious power. I am biased towards our approach because I feel it is superior on a very hot performing street application and its implementation is simpler.
Re: Which supercharger to get
I can't speak for the Vortech guys but I have a P1SC Procharger kit that had the installation on my 95 Z28 (45k miles) completed last Saturday.
My kit is the single intercooler type.
My car is a MONSTER now and I could NOT be happier.
Plus, Procharger is great every time I have had to deal with them. Every single time.
From my experiences I recommend a Procharger.
My kit is the single intercooler type.
My car is a MONSTER now and I could NOT be happier.
Plus, Procharger is great every time I have had to deal with them. Every single time.
From my experiences I recommend a Procharger.
Re: Which supercharger to get
Originally Posted by UtOhCop
Are you nuts? You need a Dyno tune if you put a supercharger kit on an LT1. You will blow up your motor in a heartbeat with the stock tune.
As for A2A or A2W.... whatever, this has been contested so many times in this forum. Its ford vs chevy to me.


