Just shredded the belt on my Procharger, so looks like ill have to step up to an SDCE tensioner. So what actually makes a spring tensioner better than the manuel tensioner on the kit? Ive never really laid my eyes on one personally cause not alot of people around here are into FI. And also what is the actual price on this setup? I have a P600 with a 12 rib

 

Not sure about the P600B. But on the F1sc, D1sc, or P1sc it not only has a better tensioner but it also prevents flex in the mounting bracket. The tensioner is better because it has a constant tension over a large area of travel. He personally mocks up your system and makes sure everything lines up.

 

Yep, and when I had mine done it was $500. They just got done doing my ATI balancer, 7.625 crank pulley and machining it all together .
We will be ready to start putting the motor together hopefully in a few weeks

 

So how long does it usually take to get it all back?

 

He's usually very good with the turn around time. I had my tensioner back in about a week and a half. Very well built product!

-B

 

It depends on how busy he is. I originally was told it would take over a month, and that if I wanted, I could have it "rushed" by paying an additional $250. I told them there was no way I was spending 50% of the price of the tensioner, and they ended up shipping it in a few weeks.

Honestly I feel that they are priced a bit steep at $500 a pop, but they are the only ones out there doing it as far as I know, and the tensioner does work awesome and is a quality piece.

 

Is this still something that is still recommended when using an F1-A and a 12 rib set-up?

 

I would just run the 12 rib and F1-A to see if there is belt slippage...if there is then go with the tensioner.

I didn't want to take everything apart and decided to get the tensioner right off the bat with my D1 and 12 rib set up. No chance of belt slippage now!

-B

 

I would say do it anyway, just in case you will raise the boost later (as most do)

I am running it on mine with the D1 maxed out on an 8 rib, and have no slippage.

 

make sure your blower is properly aligned also, i had the same issue with my 12 rib set up on my old d1, i spend nearly 200 hours and 20 belts later i figured the right way to shim the blower so it was even with the crank. It can look like it lines up lenght wise but sometimes the buttom of the bracket can sit in further out/deeper in, thus tilting the blower.

 

LittleRedZ any tips on installing the Crank pulley setup and the Blower pulley alignmet wise??? We are putting the motor together soon and I had SDCE set me up with their Tensioner setup and an ATI, 7.65 Crank pulley, machined together. As far as I know I don't have to do anythig to timing chain cover??

 

lenght wise i just shimmed the crank blower pulley away from the balancer with washers to get the desired lenght. Lay a straight edge across both of the pulleys that should tell you if youre good on lenght. and as far as tilt goes its a little more complicated try putting a level on the front of the engine and then on the blower bracket.

 

Here's an idea my buddy from morgan motorsports gave me for my p600b/LT1 combo. You'll have to dissassemble the tensioner and take the springs out of it. Ever notice that the tensioners on these start to split apart after some miles? Thats because the springs in there are gouging out the soft aluminum. O.K so I removed the springs noting how the tensioner was lined up to itself. There are three holes on the backside of the tensioner, the side that butts up to the bracket. I drilled out the side facing the radiator so the holes would go all the way through, MAKING SURE NOT TO DAMAGE THE THREADS ON THE BACK SIDE!!!! I used a smaller bit and went through the backside to make sure it lined up. I did have to clearance the large washer a bit so the bolts would sit flat. I just did two of the three holes because I was pressed for time and that thing is completely solid. Now wrench that belt down. I sent a pic to your email

 

I had trouble with the AI p600b tensioner. A similar problem with the springs hanging inside the tensioner body. I eventually worked them free. Also, pulley face alignment is critical. Also, I noticed with the D1 (changed from p600b), the belt has more slack on a 7.6" to 3.4" pulley set-up. I designed a hard stop to only allow the tensioner to unload approximately 0.125" on the loose (top) side. I have found that the tensioner can deflect alot when unloading the drive pulley under engine deceleration with no hard stop. Hope this helps. (97ss - 383 - D1)

 

My fix requires you to remove the springs-they'll never break again! Also, the pulley is completely locked so you don't have to worry about the tensioner unloading and this doesn't cost $500.