I guess your saying why own a chevy when you can have a mercedes....

 

Yes, you are getting the luxury of convenience, the improved reliability and the ability to upgrade easily down the road (i.e. intermediate pump booster connector / interface). It’s a win-win-win situation.

Jack
Racetronix

 

Exactly jack. I think were getting off track though. Dollar to sense was the issue. You have a 1st class set up. some people h go off a budget and this was an easier way of doing it.

 

I think what he was trying to say was...anyone with any electronic background can build the harness their self. its just using a simple relay and circuit. Use the + wire of the car harness going to the fuel pump to activate the new relay and run a big gauge (-) (+) and mount the relay close to the pump with a relativity short as possible wire. this will fix the voltage drop. Also run a 12gauge wire (fused) to the battery for the relay support.

Any questions just email me [/B][/QUOTE]

Thank you, thats all i was saying. Not trying to flame ractronix. you know your stuff and you where very nice to speak with. I did ask about runing that much power into these pumps (WALBRO gss340) and you said there was no problem and that it would last 1500hrs at 22 volts with no problem. I even ask about cavitional problems and nothing was stated to concern me, but what the hell im happy with my setup, and you gave me the idea. You told me about the MSD BAP and you said it would be a nice combo. However i can have a opion and it still stands that 85 dollars in wires to be a wast of money, when i can make it in my shop for under 10 bucks. Maybe not the same quality but does the same damn job.


Bill

 

I never quoted a Walbro pump being able to operate up to 22 volts or last 1500 hours at that voltage.

A Walbro pump will start to cavitate at about 17 volts so it is best to keep the maximum voltage at 16.

Yes, some people may wish to make their own harness in order to save some money but using non-weatherproof components to do so is taking one step back from factory reliability. This should be even more of a concern considering most HP car owners have some serious coin invested in their motors. Even if someone does not want to spend the money on a Racetronix harness it still would be nice to see them use Weatherpack components. Perhaps we should consider selling a parts kit with the key components such as a waterproof relay + socket, fuse holder, heatshrink etc for the D-I-Y people?

Jack
Racetronix

 

 

Reasonable is a relative term. A W/P relay alone is more than the $10.00 you state to have spent on your system.

Check www.casperselectronics.com web page for pricing on W/P relays, fuse holders etc so you can get an idea what EO style hardware is worth.

Jack
Racetronix

 

I doubt it would make sense for you to do that, unless you're getting all that REALLY cheap. For most of the rest of us, weatherpack goodies, heat shrink tube... could be had at a reasonable cost at Pep Boys or Autozone. Even better there are 2 local electronics supply places that have most of the stuff at less then half of the parts store cost. It's unlikely that you can compete with volume stores in price, so I would be surprised if you could sell such a kit at a profit. Unless you were willing to take a small loss to make some people happy…

 

There are a few factors which would add to the cost of a LT1 D-I-Y kit. The fuel module connector is a custom piece specific to the F-LT1 which can not be bought over the counter. This is assuming one would want it to be true plug & play.

Add up the price of all the wire, nylon loom, connectors, 40A mil spec. relay, fuse holder, SS mounting hardware, ties, fuses, battery nuts, terminals etc. and you would be hard pressed to buy all the components for less than $40.00 excluding the F-LT1 connector which is an expensive part itself. Then there is the issue of having the proper crimpers and pin tools for the wide assortment of terminals all of which are not really Weatherpack but rather Metripack series.

Racetronix buys these parts in the thousands and could put together a kit BUT the manual, packaging and support would be too much of an issue to make it feasible. A wire cut too short, a terminal that did not crimp or solder properly... it would be a nightmare.

Sometimes it is more expensive to sell a kit with many small parts as D-I-Y than it is to sell it as a completed item. Perhaps this is why Heathkit went out of business many years ago?

This thread has deviated way off topic which originally addressed the double in tank fuel pump system. For those waiting to get one, we will be starting up production once we have finished our move to a new larger facility which hopefully will be completed by the end of May ‘03.

Jack
Racetronix

 

Jack,

I recently recieved my dual intank fuel pump system from you. I know wiring it up should be a no brainer, but is there a diagram I may also have as a refrence?

Thanks,

Eric Bazan

BTW, Very nice piece of work you guys sent me. Very high quality workmanship and materials. I am very pleased with my purchase.

Thank you!

 

Eric,

Please direct all inquiries for support to support@racetronix.com or to the dealer from which you acquired the product.

Thank you,

Jack
Racetronix

 

I just bought the high-pressure kit with the upgraded harness. I will say that the quality is very impressive. Worth the extra $100? You bet, if you want the best-performing system. If you can build it yourself, go ahead, but the Racetronix setup is great, certainly better than anything I could cobble together. I should have mine installed tomorrow.

 

Not all the time the DIY is cheaper.... I think that producing something near the quality of the racetronix harness should cost you around 15% less... That is since you will not pay for the assembly.. Then it goes.. Why DIY when a pro is charging that little to make it??? To learn.. sure... but if that is not your thing leave it to others... I bet you dont do every single thing in your car.. I think that to fix your A/C you probably take it to a pro...

That said.. The harness is worth every penny and the kit too... I didn't have to buy anything to get my installation done.. Im Happy!!! So will you... no flames!

 

You know, statements like these are the only reason that I got involved in this thread.

Racetronix stuff is well built.

Best performance? Better then DIY? No.

Anyone could build something that will give as good performance assuming that they use good hardware and take the time not to do a hack job. There are also those DIY guys that overbuild everything (at times I’m borderline that way), that might decide to use all milspec connectors, and probably in the long run would end up what would resemble a custom chassis harness with the best of everything….

For 99% of people just buying it probably is the best deal, for someone like me, it probably wouldn’t be. Most people could get the parts at the places that I listed or an AC Delco electronics store and build it for probably 15-35% cheaper… but unless this is something that you do all the time that price difference is worth the time it’s going to take you to chase down the parts and build it yourself. Me? Well, I wouldn’t go to any of the normal sources since I know of a source to get stuff like that relay for $1.90 (don’t ask, I won’t tell you), they don’t get really expensive until you get over 50A (the 70A that we just used to install a Lincoln fan in my brother’s car ran me $7.89). I’d also probably run a 40A breaker in the place of the fuse (should never blow a 40A fuse with that circuit, but I wouldn’t want to get stranded the one time that it happens), and the wiring would be a piece of cake (I’m a computer/network guy that started as a hardware geek… so this kind of wiring work is akin to building stuff using a rock and a stick). For that matter, I’m pretty sure that I’ve got a 40A relay and breaker, correct sockets and appropriate size wire (though I think I’m out of red) in my roll away right now…

 

On a similar note (was going to start a new thread but it really fits under this title), anyone (Jack?) have a picture of a twin pump setup on a 3rd gen f-body hanger?