I have been told by a couple of random people that the stock mains will walk or just crap out completely when running a supercharger and I have also been told that there won't be any problem at all. Which is more likely? I'll be running a procharger 9lb P1sc. Thanks.

 

What are you talking about Eddie? your HE pistons & rings are going to crap out way before the cast crank & mains come apart, & if you still got a stock 94 shortblock in there, you probably got a few miles on it, No?

As far as problems with the crank flopping around and walking, if it's all aligned and the belt tensions are ok, it will live long enough to let you destroy the pistons and join the 'Rebuild Club'.

 

I'm a little ahead of you there. The motor is already being rebuilt with forged goodies, less mains. I shoulda mentioned that, sorry. The rebuild situation is a little wierd since it all started with a minor cam swap then got way out of hand. Then I jumped on the tyrbne sale last month and bought the blower. So would you still have the same situation or is it a whole new ballgame now. Sorry I didn't mention it earlier.

 

Well you might want to scratch up the $400 or so for the 4 bolt mains since you are doing a forged engine, but I understand where you are coming from about the build costs spiraling out of control. Still, for a street engine that only sees redline once in a while, the stock caps will hold together. If you end up having to pay for an align hone (at least have it checked as part of your rebuild), then you might consider it. If you bolt it all together and the crank spins nicely, you're mains are probably OK, but sometimes the OEMs put different thickness bearings in there to make up for the mains being different heights from eachother. Some guy not knowing that can just bolt his crank in there with a new set if identical bearings and get caught. Align hone has problems of its own, though, cause then you got a crank up higher which loosens the timing chain and might even misalign the trans.

 

If it's done right and the block was true, you should never remove anything from the block itself. An align hone should put the centerline of the crank in true specifications. Both blocks that I had align honed had to take a significant amount of material off the caps. Timing chain were never even close to being loose.

 

So you can just convet to a four bolt block from a two bolt? Is there any modifying required to make it work? I really know nothing about that stuff.

 

Ditto I want to learn more about this as well.

 

And if material is removed from the block we're not even talking about as much as a cylinder hone, maybe a couple of thousanths if that.


You can indeed. You need to buy the center three caps, and the block must then be drilled for the outer bolts and the crank align honed. This can be an expensive operation to have done.

 

Hope mine comes out as good as yours. I only posted that because those things do pop up every now & then. That's why Cloyes makes a slightly larger crank sprocket to tighten up the chain & you can get offset dowels for the trans to keep it aligned. But, yeah, for the typical 3 thou or whatever it takes to true the block, you don't usually need this stuff.

 

My align bore was $220. Not that expensive.

 

Guys,

When you are build a blower motor and have the ability later on to add more boost, intercoolers etc.... building a good foundation to start from is paramount. Getting a good block on something that is going to be abused heavily or rebult many times it's best to start off with a good block. Cup teams use blocks for a long time now and just keep putting new cylinder sleaves in them. They do the block prep right the first time and get tons of use out of them.

In this situation a 4 bolt conversion is key to making the motor live and deal with what you are throwing at it down the road.

Bret

 

what would it cost to convert a 2 bolt to a four bolt?

 

I think I paid ~500 for my splayed mains. But I just ruined my block(frozen water = big oll crack!) so I'm out some cash and have to have it done to another block now.... yay!

 

parts+labor you are looking anywhere from 500-800 depends what kind of caps you use and who's dong your labor. If i would guess a job like that with billet caps can run 1k

 

DAMN! I wish I'd know that before. I am running low on funds to get into something like that. How long would the stock ones hold up? This sucks! That's what I get for getting ahead of myself.