I have the 6 psi kit i want to know where i can get the 7in crank pulley for more boost? and what pulley do you use the 6psi or 4.5 psi to make about 7 or so psi .Oh yeah were can you get an intercooler to fit my application i know they dont make one but can you rig one up.thanks

 

Wow man, I wish they could get that thing done for you.....I know how it is having to wait seemingly an eternity. To answer your question first of all forget about an intercooler on a Powerdyne ......I don't think anyone has ever done it for good reason. It simply can't make enough boost to compensate for the boost loss that would be incurred by the intercooler. Max impellor RPM is 43,000, in order to get decent boost through an intercooler you would have to pulley it up above 43K and it wouldn't last long. The most these things can make on bone stock LT1's is about 9 ~ 10 PSI, that's with the 7 inch and 2.93 pulley combo.

My crank pulley is a 6.45 inch being used with the 2.93 blower pulley. It makes 7.5 PSI @ 5,700 RPM (nearly 8.0 at 6,000 but the power peak's way below that anyway). The pulley is totally custom from ASPracing.com, I think it was $165. My combo is stock heads with 1.6 RR's and Hooker LT's and the same K&N and solid intake you have (for comparison's sake concerning boost readings). The best way to go is with the 3.13 blower pulley (4.5 PSI kit) and 7.0 inch crank pulley ....more surface area for the belt to grip, less tension required to eliminate slip ....longer bearing life. That combo produces just a touch more impellor RPM than my setup but you get better belt grip (40,900 RPM @ 6,000 engine RPM vs 40,300 RPM @ 6,000 engine RPM....my setup). It's definitely worth it to do it while it's all apart and in the shop IMO ....however, expect a five week wait for the pulley. If you're in a rush you could probably get the 2.7 blower pulley from Powerdyne a little faster and get about the same results....you'll just have to tighten it a bit more to prevent belt slip.

Let us know how it turns out....good luck.

 

Well Canbaufo i got the car home were can i start well it made 380.3 SAE RWHP standard is about 400. ok they could have done better but just my luck my accel 300 plus SH** the bed it went south on the 2nd dyno pull,Oh yeah that also was thru a magnaflow exhaust,he didnt even un cap the cut out.Anyway he told me to drive the car for a couple weeks until he gets the accel box checked out ,he's shipping it back to see whats wrong.Then he wants me to bring it down to finish the tuning with the new box...He says the stock ignition is being blown out at higher rpm's can this be true..well i hope he can squeeze a little more ponies out what do you think...

 

Those #'s aren't bad considering it's not all worked out yet. It seems a lot of us have problems with ignitions burning up. My Crane HI-6 was suspect for problems so it was replaced with an MSD6AL/BTM setup. The tuner discovered it by bypassing the Crane ignition ....suddenly, even on stock ignition alone the power curve was way smoother than with the Crane HI-6 hooked up. It was going to hell right at the changeover point (when it switches from multiple spark to single spark at roughly 4,000 RPM) .....from that point upward the power curve just went up and down all goofy looking whether there was knock retard or not, no other problems were evident at the time. Later on it was discovered that I had valve float as well (with a mere 42K on my stock, rarely abused valvetrain!) but that problem did not occur until 5,000 RPM and above. So the ignition fix cured the 4K to 5K problem and then the valvsprings being replaced cured the remaining problem from 5K upward. It's possible that the problem was the springs all along but the tuner feels the Crane ignition was definitely the culprit at the 4K mark (understandable because you shouldn't have valve float at that low of an RPM). I had a ton of other issues too including all kinds of problems with false knock and a radiator passage that had been blocked off (oil cooler line that had been eliminated) busting open on the 10th pull. My car was in the dyno shop for three months and went from 355 RWHP to 384 RWHP .....some $3,000.00 dollars+ later, a true nightmare. Once you add in the cost of travel, the 42# injectors, the larger crank pulley, and a few other things .......I wound up paying about $4,000.00 to be dyno tuned to a higher power level. I guess the power level was significantly lower before since it was pig rich and on the smaller crank pulley (probably 340 RWHP). I gained 2.68 MPH in the 1/8 th mile after all of that (3.5 MPH or so in the 1/4) .....so don't feel too bad if you don't get the results you hoped for. It happens to lots of us; I guess overall I'm pretty happy with my setup though, traction is the biggest problem I have to address at this point.

I think you should be able to top the 400 RWHP corrected mark by a few ponies if everything is dialed in correctly, but every combination respondes differently. At least you already have decent numbers without even uncorking the exhaust. What kind of A/F ratio and timing are we talking about on that run?

 

TO tell you the truth i dont know what kind of A/F and timing i have to ask them thats a good question they said it wasnt really done yet but i suspect more because i had valve float the first time too bad springs,but now i have new heads and everything and my first trip to the dyno i had a wavy dyno chart,and i was told that was from false knock weak springs,now i make alot more HP but i still have that wavy chart he's trying to say it the ignition i think its something else im guessing it might be my opti spark i never changed it and the car has 82,000 miles on it so what should i check for .the car is going back today because he left a couple wires touching the headers and i burnt 2 now the car has a miss and the SES light is on but he said bring it down he will fix it for me right away well he better for what i paid ... But my qustion is do you think he is right with the accel ignition box i dont know im confused ..I want this to be finished so i can start getting to the track he also said dont go race it yet..I guess hewants it done too before i go to the track and have his a name all over the place saying he did a good job or bad .So do you think 380 to the wheels is bad with the problems i have?
I guess im worried because i wanted this to be a 400 hp car.
Oh yeah my header is leaking at the slip tube on the MAC's does that have anything to do with the HP loss?

 

I just call asp racing they told me 8 weeks (dammm)
Is there any other pulleys we can use (or adapted from anther system like say from vortec or ati?)

 

These aftermarket ignitions are always suspect.....even the well respected MSD is known to burn up pretty frequently. I've heard many people say they change ignition boxes every year or two out of necessity....even MSD folks like me. This is in a daily driven scenario though....when you're putting 20K a year on your car. Even brand new the Accel and Crane boxes can be a total pile of crap. Dude, after spending all of that money.....I highly recommend you do wait quite some time to race it. Drive the car for awhile once you get it back and observe, observe, observe. Once you feel it's reliably in the clear....take it to the track with a little race gas mixed in to be safe. I think it could be a 400 HP car but it really depends on your heads.....I don't know exactly what's been done to them other than what you've listed. Who ported them? I think it would be ideal to pulley up a bit beyond the 6 PSI pulley combination because you are not going to get 6 PSI with your setup if you don't. (your heads and headers will drop the boost reading to more like 5 PSI). If you have an FMU you could wait and do that later once the pulley finally arrives (should you decide to go with ASP). Tell the tuner to leave the timing a bit on the safe side ....then when you put your bigger pulley on later, the FMU will add the extra fuel and some timing will already be taken out to compensate for the boost increase. I feel certain that you would be around 410 RWHP or more if you had my pulley combination (assuming your heads are good quality and there are no more problems). Even with your existing pullies I think you should make at least 390 ....not too shabby for 5 PSI of boost, shorty headers, and stock cam with mild heads. Since your header leak is on the driver's side (since you said at the slip tube) I doubt that is causing false knock but I guess it could (the knock sensor is on the passenger side). Other than that, I don't think a header leak would affect power much if any at all. 380 definitely sounds very good considering it's not all ironed out yet I was stuck at 355 RWHP for a long time and it was finally tweaked to 384. Good luck and proceed with LOTS of caution once you get your car back, at least for awhile.

 

THANKS CANBAUFO

Well my car has no FMU 37 lbs injectors
A stage 2 head 2.00 int/1.57 exh valves
the place that did them is WWW.CARTEK.NET
And how did you know what boost i made My A/F ratio is between 12.1/12.2 at wide open throttle.I did make 380.3 sae corrected..I was there today to have the header fixed it seems ok i will keep an eye on it .I was talking to the tuner he said the ignition will be in soon so i can bring it back there to get it finished.So i asked him what he tought he said it was that bad of HP with a mild blower and a stock profile cam very streetable.I also asked him what my HP's should be done he said it will be close to 400 I said i hope so THANKS AGAIN...

 

That's a good A/F ratio, nice and safe but lean enough to make much better power than factory target A/F or FMU style A/F. Hey, I want to ask you......does the A/F get a little leaner from 5252 RPM and above? The reason I ask is my tuner had mine at about 12.1 as well, however.....at 5252 RPM and above it leans out to 12.5 ~ 12.7. I was concerned about this and he said there was no problem.....that he actually tuned it like that on purpose because there is less load on the motor past the RPM = torque point (5252 RPM) and it doesn't need to be as rich to be safe at those RPM's. He claims it is tuned to go pig rich at about 6,100 RPM and above and lots of timing is removed. This is a good way to have it setup because the motor falls on it's face safely if you over rev it......you may want to suggest that to the Cartek guys. I think that's a good way to have it setup; you can have say...a 6,400 RPM electronic rev limiter module in but the fuel-rich/timing-low tuning from 6,000 - 6,400 get's it slowed down enough that you probably won't even need the rev limiter. Definitely make sure they raise the fuel cutoff RPM limiter OUT OF RANGE, like 6,800 RPM or something so you never hit it....ever.
Here's another idea for ya in case you want to pulley up later......have them set the fuel up a little rich, like 11.5 or so and remove one or two degrees of timing.....then it will probably be setup ok for your faster impellor speed. Of course, the best way would just be to visit them again once you get the new pulley combo (notice how I talk as if I'm sure you will wind up doing it.....lol) .....that's because ....."boost is addictive". And you won't be content with 5 PSI for long. The biggest benefit of pulleying up is the improved bottom end and mid range (see torque in my sig) .....and the blower is a tad louder..hehe. I'm excited for you man, I hope it all turns out good.

 

Well i have to ask my tuner about the A/F ratio after 5200 i will and get back to you.

He wants to get my car making a little over 400 RWHP as it sits i hope he can that would be a good feat for only 5-5.5 psi and the car would be pretty safe to drive.

What do you think this car will run in the 1/4 its going to have put on soo a set of KYB 8 way adjustable shocks.LCA's a spohn torque arm adjustable,and a set of nitto's what do you think it will run thanks alot for your advice...

 

Good thinking about keeping it safe, if you can get 400 out of 5 PSI that is indeed very good and staying on the safe side at the sime time. The best I've run is 8.30 @ 90.2 MPH in the 8th (12.85 @ 113 MPH in the 1/4 would be the equivalent).....that's with less than ideal gearing (had to hold 3rd really long or shift to 4th right before the end with my 3.73's.....taller tires would cure me) and a lousy 2.02 60 ft .....and spinning the Nitto DR's through 1st and 2nd gear for about 300 feet (never could hit WOT in 1st gear and barely could in 2nd for long). The power is there but traction is not, even with a poly torque arm bushing, boxed/relocated LCA's, Nitto DR's, Boxed/fully welded SFC's, and 19 PSI in the tires. Looking at the MPH (which maybe could have been better as well since I couldn't use full throttle for the first ~ 150 feet) .....I assume I could hit high 11's with traction so I'm pretty happy with the setup even though I don't have really good numbers to back it up. The MPH is the primary indicator of RWHP so I'd say my dyno numbers are on par since I couldn't even floor it all the way and had to tach all the way out of 3rd way past the power peak to finish. I could feel it going rich and falling on it's face around 6,100 RPM ....where the tuner said it's suppossed to do that. If you hit 400 HP or more and have all of those suspension mods.....with great driving and sticky tires you could manage 11.8 or so, but the MPH is where you would really shine....probably upper teens.

 

Thanks Canbuafo, i know its all in the MPH ..so i will be taking it to the track soon to see what it pulls,well after the finish the tuning.I will ask him when i see him about your ? about the A/F ratio .i will hope for the best in the 1/4 i have a lot riding on it well my friends will never let me live it down,because i had an 89 iroc-z 350 tpi car with little mods with a 100 shot running 13.0 @ 107 with 1.7 60ft times,so i have alot of pressure to be at least in the mid to low 12's

 

With 380-400 RWHP and DR's you should run very low 12's or high 11's.

Charlie - I run my A/F ratio at 12.5 -12.8 across the board all the way to 6200. No problems at all with detonation or knock retard. I do my own programming using LT1 edit as you may already know.

Later ... Larry S.

 

Thanks Mislman, well when it goes back for the final tunning thats when he said he will try to get it near that 400 RWHP mark...i do hope it does run in the low 12's considering my set-up is pretty weird all this work to heads,blower,headers,37 lb injectors, 1.5 RR's,and a stock cam i dont think they did that bad with the HP i was suprised i thought i was going to get alot less..But he laughed and said it will be better with a performance ignition box and not that stock ignition...

Hey guys what does 380-400 at the wheels translate to the flywheel i get confused there is so many different way's of figuring that out...

 

Most people use the rule of thumb that the powertrain robs about 15% of your power with a manual and around 20% with an automatic. This is generally true at power levels a bit lower than our league depending on how heavy the driveline is of course (ie, Ford 9-inch would soak up a few more ponies than a 10-bolt). At our power levels the percentage lowers a bit but not a whole lot. Think of it like this, the powertrain can only rob so much HP .....as your flywheel HP gets to be higher and higher the percentage of HP robbed by the powertrain will be lower and lower, because it can only soak up so much. At the 350~400 RWHP + mark it is going to be more like 13 ~ 14 % with a manual and 17 ~ 18% with an auto from what I have heard. All you do is subtract the percentage of parasitic driveline loss from 1.0, that will be your divisor .......then take your RWHP # and divide it by that to get your flywheel HP. EG: In my example I'm using stock 10-bolt and at 384 RWHP ......so 14% parasitic loss would be a good guess. 1.0 - .14 = .86 ........ 384/.86 = 446.5 flywheel HP. Think of it as "86% of WHAT? = my RWHP #" .....that's how I remember it anyway.

So you could conceivably make over 450 "horspower" .....pretty cool hugh? Just think, those mega dollar Viper GTS cars were only rated at 450 for a good while (the R/T's were only at 400 in the beginning if I'm not mistaken). Of course, those same "450 HP" GTS cars were making 425 on the dyno in most cases ......so they were underrated. Now they're rated at 500+ .....I wonder how much "+" .....oh well, a cam ....some heads.....a small shot of N2O later and they'll be reading my vanity plate if they're lucky. .....as someone coined ..."too much HP is just right"

BTW, Larry....you say you have no knock, but what is the compression ratio on that rebuilt motor? (I'm guessing you stayed pretty high since you're still with a low boost blower)