Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

Powerdyne 4.5# and LT1

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Old 12-17-2002, 03:23 PM
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Powerdyne 4.5# and LT1

Does anyone run a Powerdyne 4.5# on a LT1?
If so, what are the pro's and con's?
Looking for info, any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 12-17-2002, 05:06 PM
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I did and it is good setup however I would get a vortech or ATI if I were doing it again. Do a search on this board for Powerdyne and read up on it.

Pro's: about 60 more rwhp, relatively low cost, don't have to tap the oil pan

Con's: only upgradeable to about 7 psi, its not intercooled
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Old 12-17-2002, 08:00 PM
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Well i have one i love it so far,as far as intercooling do it the old fashion way water injection, that is the way im going to do it. As far as making hp i made 315 RWHP with the 4.5 psi and i had problems and made that kind of hp such as running rich,9 degrees false knock,weak valve springs oh did i mention that was at 4800 rpm it made 315 .Its at the shop as we speak getting the upgrade kit done 6 psi ,i bent a couple valves so they are rebuilding the heads polish/port larger valve's and MAC headers with an off road pipe and 3 in cutout . It had stock maniflodsat the time and made 315 so i can honestly say I LOVE IT FOR THE PRICE... I'll let you know what it makes when done.
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:30 PM
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I have the Powerdyne 6.5lb kit with the hard-tube intake and a few other minor mods such as a Vigilante 3200 converter and I'm pretty impressed with 7lb's of boost on a bolt on LT1 I'm running 12.??
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Old 12-18-2002, 02:46 PM
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The Powerdyne 4 lb. kit makes good power for the money, is fairly easy to install, no oil lines tapped into the oil pan (ATI self-contained also does this), and is quiet (stealthy). I run an upgraded Powerdyne (6 lb.) and if you pull up besides me you would never guess my calm looking White T/A runs 11.80's just as it sits at the stoplight (275/40x17" Nitto DR's at 26 PSI). Would be quicker with some ET Streets/Slicks and a higher stall converter but I like turning corners and running fast so I didn't tailor it just for the 1/4 mile.

If you ever envision going past 6 lb. of boost then go with either ATI or Vortech since the Powerdyen won't get you there (PD might reach 7 lb. on a good day/motor). I love the Powerdyne and have been virtually trouble free for 45K+ miles (ruined some bearing once ... my bone-headed fault for over-tightening the belt). Each of these have their pro's and con's also. ATI with intercoolers is a little harder/more complex to install with all the tubing, Vortech taps into the oil pan for cooling SC (not really that big a deal but has to be handled.)

Later ... Larry S.
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Old 12-18-2002, 04:48 PM
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I am curious, can you put an intercooler on the powerdyne?
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Old 12-18-2002, 05:00 PM
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I have not heard of anyone putting an intercooler on their Powerdyne set-up but nothing is impossible, I also don't know of any company that makes them but I'm sure there is a way to mount one and make it work??

If anyone would know I would say "MISLMAN" would have some sort of idea?
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Old 12-18-2002, 05:41 PM
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if you cant find and intercooler then get water injection mix it 50/50 water and denatured alcohol...that will work for you.
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Old 12-18-2002, 06:03 PM
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Like they said....if you're sticking with low boost it is fine. However, if you want more later (you will) you are much better off with ATI or Vortech (Vortech would be my choice). Also, intercooling a Powerdyne is a bad idea.....it simply does not make enough pressure for intercooling. You will lose quite a bit of boost when you put an intercooler on. No big deal just pulley it up to compensate right? Wrong. The max impellor RPM on the Powerdyne is 43,000 RPM and the step up ratio's only 3.05 ....the point being you cannot pulley it up a whole lot. I pullied my 6 PSI kit up with a 6.45 inch crank pulley from ASP (stocker is 6.0 inches) and converted to all solid tubing and large filter. It can make 8.0 PSI at 5,900 RPM but at the 5,550 RPM power peak it is only making about 6.8 ~ 6.9 PSI. Despite the extra PSI above 5,550 it makes slightly less power from there on up due to restricion in my stock heads/intake and the fact that the air charge is not intercooled (thus necessitating removing a lot of timing). Mine is a torquey bastard but the top end isn't really that impressive (#'s in sig) .....I think partly due to the requested conservative tuning, and partly due to running a non intercooled blower, and....as mentioned, partly due to stock heads. I highly recommend Vortech ....even if you have to buy one used to get one. The fit and finish of the Vortech kit and the hardware included is much better than other brands from what I've heard. Example....you get a spring loaded tensioner in the Vortech kit, HUGE plus.
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Old 12-18-2002, 08:14 PM
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I wouldn't think of putting an intercooler on a 4 lb. centrifugal supercharger. And wouldn't bother putting one on 6 lb. unit either. Just not worth the effort to me.

JUST MY OPINION BELOW:

You "could" clock the Powerdyne head unit and probably run an intercooler set-up but the PD unit just doesn't push enough air to make it worthwhile. At 6 lb. of boost (a measure of the air flow the SC head unit should flow when used with a pulley set-up sized by the manufacturer) will make more than enough RWHP on an LT1 motor to make traction a real problem and your car a very quick and mean street machine. For those that have to have more of everything then intercooling/aftercooling and lots of tweaking will be worthwhile. For those that want to keep things simple (my set-up is pretty darn simple ... and quick for an auto with 3.70 Ford 9" rear with 2100 stall on DR's) then Powerdyne, makes a good product for a good price. I do believe the ATI and Vortech flow more air for a given engine RPM and should therefore be capable of more power for a given set-up. Since boost is a measure of restriction, do not confuse having 6 lb. on my engine with seeing 6 lb. on a gauge on your engine. Each engine and exhaust system will flow differently and may have a different boost reading for the same SC RPM. A 4 lb. system should get you 60 RWHP and a 6 lb. system should get you 100 RWHP (ballpark figures and varies on your engine set-up and its efficiency.

Price each manufacturers kit. Ask yourself what your ultimate goal is (400 RWHP is possible with 6 lb. boost). And then purchase a kit accordingly. If 6 lb. is the most you'll want then you can't go wrong with any of those listed. If you may ever want more boost, then Powerdyne is limited to 6 lb.

Take your time, be honest with yourself, and you'll really love the feel of boost.

Later ... Larry S.
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Old 12-19-2002, 07:32 AM
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I'm glad this thread came up as I had a brainstorm this morning that I want to take this route with my LT1. It is bone stock right now, and instead of nickel and diming my way around with catbacks and headers and stuff like that, I think I'll just save up and do one big mod, this one.

I figure it'll allow the car to still have great street manners, still making the same torque peaks, but just with a higher amount at the peak. I don't like the idea of a heads/cam package because they are too peaky, and I don't want to do a converter swap as I like having snappy throttle response and I don't want to lose the MPG for daily driving.

So the low psi blower is the best way for me to ensure I'm running consistent low 13s.

I was wondering if anyone has done this blower on an LT1 but kept everything else 100% stock? If I do it I have no plans of adding any headers or catback or anything else right away. The only other provisions I would make would be drag radials, and a custom program (probably from ARE) to take out a tiny bit of timing so I could run 92 octane everyday.
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Old 12-19-2002, 08:49 AM
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Way back (early 1996) when I first installed the 4 lb. Powerdyne kit, my T/A was stock except for a K&N filter. It ran 13.81 at 99 MPH. I added the 4 lb. Powerdyne only and was running 13.20's on street radials (not DR's). Added a cat-back and DR's and would run 13.0's-13.20's depending on weather and traction. Added 1.6 roller rockers and could run 12.89 at 103 on a good day. That was with an automatic, stock converter, and 3.23 gears with stock programming. Pretty nice for a mild street car (and about average for a nicely tuned LS1 F-body dammit).

Later ... Larry S.
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Old 12-19-2002, 10:07 AM
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Hey Mislman,
If you ran high 12's with just with what you said is it possible for me to run low 12's I have a 97 TA with the 6 psi kit ,solid intake tube, larger air filter,MAC headers OR pipe,3 in cutout,and 3 in custom exhaust,ported/polished and larger valved heads,and custom tuning on a dyno ....Of course some free mods.I will be adding prob nitto's it is a M6 also...What do you think?Should i make more boost with the soild intake too....Oh yeah they will also pro be adding larger injectors and he is also adding the second fuel pump i didnt get it back yet still in the shop i can't wait to see what RWHP it will come back with..

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Old 12-19-2002, 11:57 AM
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With your set-up and some good traction (1.80's 60' times) you should be able to hit low 12's and maybe high 11's. Just a matter of which race track, traction and how well you shift. Your engine combo with 6 lb. boost should easily make enough power for very low 12's. My current set-up isn't much different that what you describe (except my suspension is lowered and I carry very heavy duty sway bars since I love to turn corners hard, like track days at Sebring Raceway). The problem with getting good times with a 6M is getting good enough at the launch to get the car to sixty-foot well. The first 60 feet in drag racing (ET's) is EVERYTHING! After that your shifts will need work and good ET's will follow.

later ... Larry S.
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Old 12-19-2002, 02:13 PM
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Another thing he could get would be a good set of LT headers, that would make the goal much easier....
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