Well after driving the car around the last few day ..the temp is geating way to high..i have hit 3/4 on the gauge..

things i have done

-OBX 4" intercooler in the front cut a hole in the bumper
-pulled the A/C moved the rad top forward 2"
-i did not put the plastic cover back on that go's in front of the rad...it looked like there would be more air hitting the rad if i left it off
-CSI water pump 3 years old
-160 t-stat a few years old
-50/50 mix water and coolant green stuff

things i think that might be the problem
-old CSI water pump up grade to the HD version
-new t-stat
-coolant flush put some sort of coolant additive to help keep things cool
-put the plastic back on
-still have the stock rad and cooling fan's

any other ideas

 

I would put the plastics back on...

 

also for summer time driving I would run a much leaner mixture of coolant to water.. more like a 80/20 water coolant.. don't really need much antifreeze in the summer.. just enough to cover the coolant boiling too bad.. but as long as it is closed and not leaking ie pressurized as it is supposed to be the boiling point should be raised.. water is a much better transfer agent of heat then coolant.

the plastic shroud on top is a must to keep air going through the radiator instead of up and around it pressurizing the other side and causing a lack of air flow through the cooling fins. another thing.. if your base timing is too low at idel cruise.. I noticed on mine it ran considerable hotter.. maybe try raising the timing some.

Chris

 

Hey Chris,

i am going to put the cover back on and see what happens. timing is 34* at idle..

I guess this is one of those things that is a step by step.....

 

You do have your air dam on correct?? I dont think the coolant issue would help out a whole lot considering where you live. The timing may be a problem depending on what your egts are. I think too much timing may cause you combustion temps to be higher than normal.

Do you have datamaster? If so see what the computer says the car is running at. May be a guage or sending unit problem

 

Jeremy,

just to ask a question because I know mine was off a good bit.. have you put a timing light on the blancer and locked the timing to like 30* BTC and made absolutely sure your seeing 30* on the motor? if not, put the light on it with the gen 7 locked to 30* and have the dizzy hold down bolt loose.. twist the dizzy until you show 30* on the balancer and timing pointer.. once you do this, lock it down. I then popped the cap off, and rephased the rotor so she was in the meat of the cap tower terminals for a good fat clean spark. if the dizzy is out the values in the Gen7 are gonna be completely useless to truly judge what kind of timing your running.. I thought i had mine nailed and i was off by almost 20*.. once I dialed it in and synched the dizzy to the Gen 7 and both were showing the proper timing. things look ALOT better in the timing tables now. my overheating problem was corrected.. a few degrees off one way or the other and you will notice a big difference in how smooth she idles and how hot she gets. mine likes timing at idle for some reason it runs smnoothest with some timing and cooler.. generates less heat. just was curious if you had done this.. be sure you are dead on the balancer for your TDC mark. then you will know exactly what you are working with!!

Chris

 

Hey Chris,

I have set the timing at 30* I locked the gen 7 at 30* and then turned the dizzy until i saw 30* on the balance

But i will recheck this and see..

the car starts great now and will sit there and idle great it is just after 20 min of driving the temp will Clim up to around half..before it would sit just under the 1/4 mark..

I put i new rad cap on today as the old one would not hold pressure over 13bls and spec for your cars is 18lbs

I add more water as well..

i have the wbo2 work now and i am seeing 14ish AFR at idle as well

Chris do you have your Eng light on (factory pcm)

 

oh yeah.. check engine light is definately on..lol.. but I snipped the wire to the SES lamp as per fast track to get rid of it.. there is so many things wrong now with the factory ECM to set codes i doubt I could have corrected them.. for one.. no opti so no ignition signal.. I removed all narrow band o2 sensors and clipped the plugs off for a cleaner easier to work on undercarriage etc etc.. just need my wide band and one narrow band for the DFI. I hooked up the DFI trouble code illumination lamp wire to my OEM factory SES light wire.. so now if the Gen 7 sees a fault which as we discussed the code 23, it lights up the SES light to let me know the DFI isn't happy about something.. works like a charm.. at start up its on, then clear the code 23 "TPS voltage low" under x volts for .20 seconds or what ever it says and the light goes out.. pretty cool.. if you are interested in having a digital wide band gauge that fits an A piller 2 1/16", lemme know I built a pretty cool little setup with the help of MNvette.. very sweet.. reads AFR in real time and is turned on by the key switch.. very very handy when ya don't want to have the laptop out getting slung all over the place..

Chris

 

i ask about the factory Eng light because the cooling fan's ...are your on all the time because of the codes or do they come on when they should ?


That dame code 23 ? ..should ask about that....

 

Is your car an auto, couldnt tell by your sig.

 

Car is an M6, looked over it today and found that the fuse for the fan's had popped so i will have to keep an eye on it ..the drive home from work never went over a 1/4 where i like it .....

 

lol dont you love that feeling?

 

With everything i did to the car this past year.....go fig a fuse ....but we will see time for some longer test drives