I know the safest place to tap the pan is near a main cap. i was thinking of taping in right at the number one cap. the motor is in the car and i would rather not have to pull the pan to have it welded etc etc....

has anyone welded a fitting with the pan on the motor? i was also thinking of using a screw fitting and some jb weld. any help would be much appreciated.

thanks guys

 

cause4panic:

Welded a coupling to a pan on a 327 while it was in the car ... at the end we got an attention grabbing bang IN the pan and lots of smoke out the breathers. The next oil change was quite a bit darker than usual!

 

Can't drill your hole without getting some shavings in the pan.

Don't do any welding, just jb it.

It will work but I would not do it. Mine is not welded in either. My canton pan is a bit thicker than stock, I drilled the hole barely big enough, tapped it, then lots of jb weld.

 

anyone got any pics? i would imagine trying to get it as high as possible and towards the corner to try and grab a more "meaty" part of the pan

 

If you don't want to drill, tap and weld the pan in the car I have a stock pan w/ a fitting already welded to it. I'm asking $20+shipping for it. It was off my '95TA w/ 17k on it. PM me if you're interested.

Thanks,


Steve.

 

Check out page 22. I would JB weld that sucker in as well.


http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/...s/4GH218im.pdf


-Scott.

 

pull it and weld it..

do it once...do it right

 

Ehh. Were talking about a drain-back that is going to see no more force then the oil line on it. Take a look at the Vortech instruction and consider JB weld if you want to do it 'in car'. If you have the pan out, or really want to take the pan out then weld it as Sparkz28ss states.

If your car's like mine then you have some fuel blow-by and may not want to weld 'in car'. Can you get in there with a welder?

-Scott.

 

yes i have plenty of room to get in there with a welder if necessary. i think im going to try the series of punches trick. worse come to worse i buy a new pan (stock one is slightly bent up, kind of scares me actually)

 

If you're afraid of your stock pan, just buy mine. It's off of a 17k TA and has the fitting already welded onto it. It worked flawlessly. It would suck to go through that aggrevation and then replace the pan anyway. Granted, you still have to drop the pan if you buy mine. The only reasons I'm not using it is I have a 383 and got a Canton pan w/ the motor.

 

I did mine with a punch, then tapped it for the pipe thread and cleaned it all up and JB welded in the brass barb fitting. That was in '99 and it's still good as new with no leaks. Just make sure to rotate your crank so you don't smack into it with the punch. If you were rebuilding your engine, then, yeah, I'd say weld it, but you dont have to do that to get a good tight seal.

 

Thank you for the offer, when i said new pan ....... i probably should have said different. if it dosent work out i will give you a buzzzz

 

Sounds good. BTW, what everyone else here has said will work. I've seen it done numerous times. I just thought I could help you when you started considering the possibility of having to weld on the pan. Good luck w/ your install.

 

My experience... Punched a 9/16 hole in the stock LT1 pan. It rolled sheet metal on the inside. I used a 3/8 npt tap with greese on flutes to catch the shavings. Re-greased a number of times to clean particles from the tap. Did not have any problems. B.

 

jw, after you tap it, couldnt you "change your oil" like 2 times to get any metal still in there out? That way you dont have to turn your car on, just let it fill up, and then drain it, and have the metal shavings out of the pan...