Forged pistons (je's or diamonds my choice), forged rods (h's), cast iron crank 355 or 383 (they suggest 355 bc of stock heads) , machine work, gaskets, and bearings = $3500

D serious procharge with front mount intercooler = 4500

everything installed and dyno tuned out the door= 8500

Does this seem about right cost wise?

I want atleast 600 to the wheels and I have an a4? They said it was doable with 14 to 15 lbs of boost.

Any thoughts please let me know.

Thanks,

Pride

 

kinda, where are these prices from? A local speed shop?
I would contact one of the bigger known shops and get some reference quotes. But what ever your total is add 50% to it. Lots of hidden costs will come about, and you dont want to have to stop you project once it starts. So call Ls1speed, thunder racing, VRE, and get some numbers, they should all be close to one another.

 

This question will yield lots of different answers.. It will at the least be 7k for motor and blower just no way to go cheaper unless you go used parts. Labor is where the crazy change in motor builds occurs.. As the other guy said have 3-4 K ready for all types of issues.. Then some more for blown parts due to your power increase. It's all worth at the end, but not cheap nor easy...

 

I was in the same boat as you when I started into the forced induction world. I talked to several engine builders that are sponsors here and a few that weren't and chose the one that really took the time to talk to me and help me lay out what I needed to reach my goal. Even after I bought the supercharger and engine, I thought just a few $'s more and I would have everything. WRONG!! I had to buy another $3K+ in parts. You have to figure in gauges, fuel system, injectors, throttle body, gaskets, fluids, tuning, new opti, and several other odds and ends.

As far as the engine, give Karl Ellwein (www.ellweinengines.com) a call and tell him what you are wanting to do and see what he can come up with. Not only does he build badAzz motors, but his customer service and help after the sell is Top Notch!

 

Will the two bolt main be strong enough for 600rwhp? Will a cast 355 crank be strong enough? Im using stock heads and a blower cam, what size pistons and rods should I go with?

obviously I want the compression ration as low as possible, well as close to 8.5 to 1.

Thanks for your response please keep them coming,

Pride

 

I would re use the stock crank before the scat. people have done big things on stock cranks.(800 flywheel hp). No reason to buy one unless you getting something forged.

THe mains, you could use some more support there. Rpms are what kill the main bolts, so keep them low if you plan on the 2 bolt.

Compression- i wouldnt go that low. More like 9.1 or 9.3.1.. Too little of it and out of boost the car will be a slug. You know the story of too much, i wont re tell it.

 

The only reason Im getting a new crank is bc of the mileage on my car (98000). They said that I should bore it out to a 355. Now can I use my stock crank to do that?

Thanks this is great info please keep it coming, and if you have any suggestions regarding my build please feel free to chime in.

Thanks,

Pride

 

I'd go 383. You never know when down the road you might want to upgrade your heads, which is a pretty easy swap...switching later from 350-383 is a whole new setup..

 

How reliable are the 383's as apposed to the 355's...assume using a cast iron crank.

thanks,

Pride

 

I would be very surprised if there was any difference in reliability between a 383 and a 350 given similar parts.. It's never crossed my mind before.