I just finished installing a d1sc w/ twin i/c's, and tried to start car, but the engine wont turnover, 94Z. I can hear a relay click in the relay/fuse box when I turn the key, but the starter isnt turning. The battery is fully charged, and cables on tight. Any ideas??

 

Your Procharger is attached right where the ground for the block is/was. If you didn't hook that back up it won't crank. It's the braided copper looking cable. Had a friend with the same problem.

Bill

 

Good idea.
I checked that braided cable, and it is bolted to the head with some other ground wires, and the other end is bolted to the chassis. I also tried using some jumper cables to double ground the engine, but no change, no turn over.
My "Check Gauges" light stays lit on the dash, is this a clue?

 

Try jumping the purple wire to the starter to see if the starter kicks over.. if that works then for some reason you are not getting power to the starter wire.. so look at the ignition switch, vats, nss, etc...

Start eliminating things and you will figure it out.

 

vats?
Nss - neutral saftey switch

That neutral saftey is what it seems like, I just dont understand how that could get messed up.

I assume the purple wire is hot, so I could just use a jumper cable frrom the baterry to the starter. That will prove the starter is good.

Can the computer or one of its inputs shut the starter down?? Or is this a good old fashioned starting system?

 

Are you SURE the battery is fully charged and that sound you are hearing is not the starter solenoid?

 

vats - vehicle anti theft system (i think)

If you don't have the little resistor in your key the car won't start.

if you pull the little panel under the glovebox and find a plug coming from the engine compartment with a large purple (10 ga or so) wire, just hook a good 12V up to it. The starter should immediatly kick. If it doesn't then you have an issue between that wire and the starter. If it does you have an issue somewhere before there. Then narrow it down further from there. Easiest way to solve issues like this.

Check all your fuses while your at it too.. if you can't hear the fuel pump cycling on then the computer might not be getting the 12V signal it needs to start the car.

 

It was a long day, but I found it, shorted MAF which blew a PCM 15 amp fuse. Car started & sounds great! Still have to add booster fuel pump, then off to dyno tune & change injectors.
thanks for the support!

 

Dammit, I was gonna say MAF, cause you probably extended it... but then I got to thinking that if it wasn't connected it would just go to speed density. Didn't even consider that you may have shorted it out... Glad you got it sorted out, those kinda problems are always a PITA. Good luck on the dyno!!!

 

Ahhhhh if only it were ever that simple.

LOL

Good luck. When it works properly, its a ton of fun. After three years I still have yet to have things running "perfectly"