reamo04

well, i have everything ehre for my hotside, so, decided...what the hell...might as well start mocking it up

well, driver side is mocked up (yes, using duct-tape so that I can change it really easy if needed haha)




yes...it DOES fit under the stock hood

so, theres my progress for the day...more will come thursday and friday

Passenger side will come as soon as I figure out how to clearance either
a) the wheel well
b) the header
c) both haha
header just BARELY hits on the wheel well...i think the BFH will work though

RealQuick

Looks good!

reamo04

yeah...that mock up took me a whole 20 minutes including the cutting, putting blade on...finding duct-tape, etc haha.

My problem is going to be that danged passenger side though, its gonna **** me off haha

RealQuick

If you hammer anything... use a burnzomatic torch (blue ones from homedepot or lowes) and heat th epart up until it blackens, then use the hammer to dent it in.

reamo04

well, i havent hammered anything yet...did a little grinding on the flange though





i have a little more to do, because the bolts go in 1-2 threads...and then stop. So either 1) i have the wrong bolts...
2) their a little crooked in there

im aiming more towards 2 lol, so, i'll get it a little more tomorrow

94'BLKBRD

are those regular headers just upside down?

reamo04

they are SBC block hugger headers flipped, yes

Take a little work, but, they work.
I wouldhave liked to get my hands on a set of 1/2 ton chevy truck headers to try those, but nobody local had a set lol

1982z28with18s

You probably have the wrong bolts, DON'T KEEP TRYING TO THREAD THEM IN.

LT1-TA

but then you would of had to change up the "drivers" side primarys all around for em to work anyways. Cast manifolds would prolly be perfect without any mods

oh... and you dont know if you have the right bolts??? Well take off the headers and see if they thread in!! lol. I had to get some really long bolts because of the think flanges on my headers. i think its like a 3/8" bolt 16 TPI and mine are like 1 1/4" from the bottom of the head.

jammer94

um are you going twin or single if single then why not put the pass side down to have better clearence and wrap it around to the driver side with somesort of crossover also if you are running thick flanges it would be a good time to get some 1" long bolts and make sure that more then only 1 or 2 threads screw in...

looks to be a good idea you got there and hey just to help you out a little the Duct tape always works at holding but is a bitch sometime to work with when you have alot of bends try some packaging clear tape like for boxing things up and you will be amazed plus you can spot weld with the clear tape with the duct you dont know where you are spotting just a heads up.

reamo04

then bolts are right...they thread in without the header on there

I have a lead on some stock manifolds, so, probably going to get those today, i just wish i can get these damned headers to work, they are SO close.

And, I am going single turbo, and passenger side cannot go down without hitting the motor mount

reamo04

soo, i am an idiot...i got the passenger sider on all the way lol. The collector was hitting the heater-core tubing, so i had to push it out of the way...and now the bolt went in ALL the way with my finger

Gripenfelter

How far is that tubing from the fuel lines?

reamo04

anyways, more progress from the last hour or so





i have to connect the header to the oval part, and figure out where a good place to put a v-band is going to be so that I can get this put together lol. I may have to just put the piping on, then put the header on...not entirely sure yet
But...i have the passenger side (for the most part) to where the turbo will be


on the driver side...theres a good 3-4" between fuel lines and tubing. Tubing will also be ceramic coated, and wrapped, and then sprayed with the stuff to keep the wrap from absorbing oil, etc.

LT1-TA

I would reccomend just pulling you inner fender cover. Disconnect you fuel lines and pull them into the inner fender.

Take a hole saw and put a hole in the inner fender up close to the brake booster. Make a big loop in the fuel lines in the inner fender and route them through your new hole (that you put a grommet in of course). Then reconnect them to the fuel rail.

Bolt in the inner fender "cover" over the looped fuel lines and your good to go. No more problems with heat being anywhere near the lines and it looks 10x as good.