Lifting the heads
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 5,645
From: Bridgewater, MA
Re: Lifting the heads
Originally Posted by Geoff Chadwick
Another month and mine should be done and tuned... Then we'll get some more "funky" numbers... Though I wish I had gone with the T76GTS at this point, the Master Power GT45 is a VERY cheap alternative and it'll be great to see what it can do.
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 840
From: bakersfield ca.
Re: Lifting the heads
Originally Posted by 97WS6SCharged
Yeah, the stock heads breathe pretty well when you're forcing nearly three atmospheres through them. 
Honestly, I think it's time for some new heads, studs, and a bigger cam. Make that T88 really work.
Honestly, I think it's time for some new heads, studs, and a bigger cam. Make that T88 really work.
actually closer to 1.63 x atmospheric pressure. @ sea level of course...
he extracting some serious numbers with them by any means.
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 252
From: wilmington, NC USA
Re: Lifting the heads
Geoff,
I took the measurements of my old GT45 and it actually had a 69mm compressor minor.. which is very close to a T70 but had similar specs to the GTS turbine wheel. I figured for as large as that monster was packaged to only have the benefits of a GTS turbine wheel.. I would try my hand at something a little smaller. like the T74GTS which has the same good flowing exhaust wheel with a little bigger cold side wheel.
anyways.. i have heard some pretty good things about the MP turbos.. seems like it depends on where you look for info the way people feel about them.. I have heard some say they are great and some say that they have bearing failures and wipe out the compressor blades on the housings.. the failures seem to come from SSautochrome on the smaller sized units form what the other boards say and that they have been made hybrids which results in the failuers.. I have no physical proof of anything said here.. it is all hearsay so I would take it all with a grain of salt, But the GT45 I had felt very tough and the blades spun almost long and smooth as the DBB Garret GT42R my frind recently aquired.. So I will definately be following your build up!! Keep us posted!
as for the heads lifting.. maybe a head with a thicker deck could resolve this issue? and I have heard of people having their blocks machined for 1/2" bolts or studs for better clamping strength. for me if i get to the point where heads lifting is the problem turning the boost down will be my solution.. after all 1000+ rwhp on the street... that is just out right frightening!
lol
keep us posted!
Chris
I took the measurements of my old GT45 and it actually had a 69mm compressor minor.. which is very close to a T70 but had similar specs to the GTS turbine wheel. I figured for as large as that monster was packaged to only have the benefits of a GTS turbine wheel.. I would try my hand at something a little smaller. like the T74GTS which has the same good flowing exhaust wheel with a little bigger cold side wheel.
anyways.. i have heard some pretty good things about the MP turbos.. seems like it depends on where you look for info the way people feel about them.. I have heard some say they are great and some say that they have bearing failures and wipe out the compressor blades on the housings.. the failures seem to come from SSautochrome on the smaller sized units form what the other boards say and that they have been made hybrids which results in the failuers.. I have no physical proof of anything said here.. it is all hearsay so I would take it all with a grain of salt, But the GT45 I had felt very tough and the blades spun almost long and smooth as the DBB Garret GT42R my frind recently aquired.. So I will definately be following your build up!! Keep us posted!
as for the heads lifting.. maybe a head with a thicker deck could resolve this issue? and I have heard of people having their blocks machined for 1/2" bolts or studs for better clamping strength. for me if i get to the point where heads lifting is the problem turning the boost down will be my solution.. after all 1000+ rwhp on the street... that is just out right frightening!
lol
keep us posted!
Chris
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 2,154
From: All around
Re: Lifting the heads
I dont know about SSAutochrome, or the parts they sell, but I know all their stuff (from manifolds to wastegates, to bov's and turbos) just always falls apart. Lots of manifold weld failures and wastegate spring failures though.
The GT45 when I got it felt really sound. Good bearings. Some things most people forget is that the bearings need to get lots of oil and not be allowed to dry out - my center section has a light coating of good oil in it now, and the housing itself is also then sealed to keep things out till it's ready for final install. The other thing some people forget (I nearly did once) is that during engine break in, the turbo should not be on the car. This really isnt for the sake of the load on the motor, its the grit and such in the oil that turbo bearings really dont like.
For the most part on the turbo mustangs board, people seem to like the larger Master Power units and havent had a really bad failure rate from their vendors... unlike the stuff from SSAutoChrome. I just say stay away from those guys.
Honestly for the size of it, it wont have the punch a T76GTS would. From what I gather, it'd be better off running higher psi on a smaller motor (as proven by some Supras bolting the unit on), but time will tell that out for sure. Considering how cheaply they can be found (and if you can get a 4" Vband clamp for the downpipe) they may prove a very viable solution.
Rumor also has it that Master Power will be coming out with ball bearing center sections within the next 6-9 months as well, which would be equally cool.
When it comes to lifting the heads at that much power, O-Rings and Studs are your only option. Luckily the Cometics once they are set are easy to work with, it's just getting the surface finish to let them seal properly. I'm assuming he has the proper finish here (though if he doesnt thats an easy way to find a problem) so studs are the next step. Might as well hit those and see what happens.
The only thing I've heard is removing one of the motor mounts and lowering the engine an extra 1/2" to get the heads off, if thats even needed. For the most part it seems like people dont have too much trouble.
The GT45 when I got it felt really sound. Good bearings. Some things most people forget is that the bearings need to get lots of oil and not be allowed to dry out - my center section has a light coating of good oil in it now, and the housing itself is also then sealed to keep things out till it's ready for final install. The other thing some people forget (I nearly did once) is that during engine break in, the turbo should not be on the car. This really isnt for the sake of the load on the motor, its the grit and such in the oil that turbo bearings really dont like.
For the most part on the turbo mustangs board, people seem to like the larger Master Power units and havent had a really bad failure rate from their vendors... unlike the stuff from SSAutoChrome. I just say stay away from those guys.
Honestly for the size of it, it wont have the punch a T76GTS would. From what I gather, it'd be better off running higher psi on a smaller motor (as proven by some Supras bolting the unit on), but time will tell that out for sure. Considering how cheaply they can be found (and if you can get a 4" Vband clamp for the downpipe) they may prove a very viable solution.
Rumor also has it that Master Power will be coming out with ball bearing center sections within the next 6-9 months as well, which would be equally cool.
When it comes to lifting the heads at that much power, O-Rings and Studs are your only option. Luckily the Cometics once they are set are easy to work with, it's just getting the surface finish to let them seal properly. I'm assuming he has the proper finish here (though if he doesnt thats an easy way to find a problem) so studs are the next step. Might as well hit those and see what happens.
The only thing I've heard is removing one of the motor mounts and lowering the engine an extra 1/2" to get the heads off, if thats even needed. For the most part it seems like people dont have too much trouble.
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