Hey guys my customer just finishing dynoing his 355 LT1 car with the PTK LT1 street kit. We swapped the turbo from the 76GTS to the PTE88. The car is still using the 3" downpipe, but modified to fit using the donut flange for the PTE housing and cut shorter for the added length of the 88. The great news is the made some awesome #'s (over 1000rwhp , which surpassed the 76GTS's 987rwhp) but the heads are lifting off the block somewhat. They are just stock fully ported heads, but he is using the pro-series ARP bolts with cometic gaskets. Are their any other ARP bolts we can swap in, or is it time to go with studs? He is trying to avoid studs for the simple fact of ease of removing the heads. Amazingly the block and bottom end held, but on the dyno a motor never really sees a real load like on the street. Anyhow, you guys running studs, are you having to drop the engine somewhat to get the heads off??

Jose

 

The new ARP head studs have an allen style insert in the end so you can remove the studs easily from the block. No longer do you need to pull the engine to lift a head off the block. See more info here: http://www.electronic-pr.com/pr/arch_arp_741.html

On a side note, over 1000rwhp is damn impressive for a ARP head bolt.

Mike

 

Awesome, I will definitely check into that for him. Yeah they were the pro-series bolts though, which aren't cheap but man they clamp down nicely and don't stretch. The #'s were 1012rwhp/909rwtq. The 76GTS in comparison made 987rwhp/922rwtq. The added lag of the T88 made the torque #'s suffer a bit. The owner is not done yet . Must be nice to be retired and have lots of money to just go out and push parts till they break...hehe.

Jose

 

no doubt!!

 

all through a 3 inch downpipe. impressive

 

I think the best option would be ARP studs, and AFR heads.

BTW, that is some sick power!

How much boost? Can you post the dyno sheet?

 

you can still remove from car with studs, i have a bunch of times already

 

Yeah no problems removing the heads with regular studs.

 

Jose, i'm not sure on the exact parts, but i'd suggest to him on looking into having his heads and decks cut for O-rings and have steel O-ringed gaskets installed (I've seen SBC O-ring gaskets before, but i forget where i've seen them). Since you own a GN I assume you've heard of the Turbo-6 guys with O-ringed stage blocks running WELL in access of 30psi with NO lifting problems. This route should work for SBCs (or LT1s) also.

 

Jim, if he furnishes me with the dyno sheet I would be happy to post it. He did say that his peak torque shifted according to him by 500rpms. So the difference between the 76GTS and PTE-88 is right at 500, which is not bad, but not that great either, especially for a stick car. To be honest with you, if he ever makes it out to the track with that setup, I think the 76 would yield a better time. BTW, boost was ~24psi.



Taner, yeah I explained to him about the studs, and that looks to be like his next option.


Fast, yeah I told him about o-ringing the block, but he likes to have a fuse or somewhat of a fuse...hehe. I think a DART block with 18 deg heads would be my next move, but I guess he wants to prove a point with the LT1 block....lol.

Jose

 

wow, stock fully ported heads!?!?!?! i was just reading a post yesterday with a bunch of guys saying that stock heads arent any good no matter how good the porting is. they said that trick flow or some other aftermarket heads are always the better route to go.

guess the stock heads can make some power too....under the right cirumstances.

 

Yeah, the stock heads breathe pretty well when you're forcing nearly three atmospheres through them.

Honestly, I think it's time for some new heads, studs, and a bigger cam. Make that T88 really work.

 

Hell yea.... DART I.E. or WP Motown shortblock punched out to 427 or 434 cubic inches, 18* heads, and a pair of big boys bolted on would be absolutely insane!!! But i'm glad to see someone else stepping up to the plate with an LT1.

I guess everyone is finally seeing the potential they've been missing out on with the LT1 for the past 12 years

 

Do you think the torque numbers would respond if you went w/ a bigger DP? Most 88s use a 4" or so pipe, don't they?

Excellent numbers. I'll be building a single 76GTS setup for a friend this winter. I told him the numbers you guys made and he about **** himself.

 

Another month and mine should be done and tuned... Then we'll get some more "funky" numbers... Though I wish I had gone with the T76GTS at this point, the Master Power GT45 is a VERY cheap alternative and it'll be great to see what it can do.