Launching your turbo car at the track (auto)
Launching your turbo car at the track (auto)
Just curious for those who have turbos and autos, and NO transbrake.
How are you launching at the track?
Off idle, power braking to build boost, driving off the line like grandma?
Post your specs (turbo, stall rpm and tire/gear).. 'cause I am a curious kind of guy!
I used to launch mine off idle and flash the converter before the turbo, but now I have a lower rpm stall, and a small bit of hesitation, which I think can be tuned out.. I would like to be able to launch the same way, but I was just curious what others were doing. Mine is making boost at 2000 rpm if the chassis dyno results can be believed, and the stall is around 3500, so it should work!
How are you launching at the track?
Off idle, power braking to build boost, driving off the line like grandma?
Post your specs (turbo, stall rpm and tire/gear).. 'cause I am a curious kind of guy!
I used to launch mine off idle and flash the converter before the turbo, but now I have a lower rpm stall, and a small bit of hesitation, which I think can be tuned out.. I would like to be able to launch the same way, but I was just curious what others were doing. Mine is making boost at 2000 rpm if the chassis dyno results can be believed, and the stall is around 3500, so it should work!

The only turbo Auto's I've seen launch at the track were GN's, They foot braked it and spooled the turbo. I would think you would not want to leave at idle, the faster the turbo comes up to speed the faster you have boost. Waiting a few tenths of a sec coming off the line for the turbo to spool can really affect your times. I experience this in my car with an M6. can't wait to go Auto!
I use a transbrake but you could go so far as to use the dual caliper rear brakes that Strange offers. Disc brakes will hold a lot of power and you could possibly launch just like a transbrake with a heavy enough foot.
You might also try launching with a 2 step, just see where you can footbrake and hold the car then set the rev limiter about 200 rpm lower. If nothing else you'd be more consistent.
You might also try launching with a 2 step, just see where you can footbrake and hold the car then set the rev limiter about 200 rpm lower. If nothing else you'd be more consistent.
With my T-type, I'd just foot brake it until I could launch with boost... drum brakes work much better than disk brakes when you're trying to build boost at the line. Also, you might want to consider ditching the vacuum assist brake setup (if you have power brakes), and go with manual or hyd. assist brakes.
Originally posted by EddieP
With my T-type, I'd just foot brake it until I could launch with boost... drum brakes work much better than disk brakes when you're trying to build boost at the line. Also, you might want to consider ditching the vacuum assist brake setup (if you have power brakes), and go with manual or hyd. assist brakes.
With my T-type, I'd just foot brake it until I could launch with boost... drum brakes work much better than disk brakes when you're trying to build boost at the line. Also, you might want to consider ditching the vacuum assist brake setup (if you have power brakes), and go with manual or hyd. assist brakes.
Does anyone offer a bolt on kit for manual brakes on a 4th gen? I've been debating making my own but a prefabbed setup would be a lot easier.
i launch off of idle and its all i can do to keep the car from spinnng the first 150'. im only on 315 nittos, but i incinerate them before pulling to the line. forget about stalling and creating boost while staging...its just a smoke show. fwiw, i see boost right off of idle, i mean RIGHT away. the yank st3500 helps that surely, but i have 0 lag.
Pump the brakes a couple times and push them down hard, grab the e-brake handle and yank it up..mash the pedal and when the needle hits 15 PSI GO 
Piece of cake.. who says disc brakes dont hold..you have to get the rite pads
and slicks

Piece of cake.. who says disc brakes dont hold..you have to get the rite pads
and slicks
Originally posted by Julio
Pump the brakes a couple times and push them down hard, grab the e-brake handle and yank it up..mash the pedal and when the needle hits 15 PSI GO
Piece of cake.. who says disc brakes dont hold..you have to get the rite pads
and slicks
Pump the brakes a couple times and push them down hard, grab the e-brake handle and yank it up..mash the pedal and when the needle hits 15 PSI GO

Piece of cake.. who says disc brakes dont hold..you have to get the rite pads
and slicks
Disc brake rear end..what backing plates?
You know after two years of 1.60's at the track..not just by me, but by I know of at least 5 other TTA's(aussie 9 bolt) ..never had any issues with the rear brakes.
Maybe on the 7.5 10 bolt??? Drum rear..but we know thats a POS rear.
No jumper valve..and it doesnt work if you dont have the rite pads either.
You know after two years of 1.60's at the track..not just by me, but by I know of at least 5 other TTA's(aussie 9 bolt) ..never had any issues with the rear brakes.
Maybe on the 7.5 10 bolt??? Drum rear..but we know thats a POS rear.
No jumper valve..and it doesnt work if you dont have the rite pads either.
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