I bought a used keyed hub of unknown origin to use with my new stroker
blower motor. The hub is a round piece of metal instead of having the
three ears. Anyway, I did a test installation tonight, and after
pulling it off it looked like some metal got shaved and pushed up into
the recess. It seemed to come from the half circle centered on the
keyway. It wasn't much metal. I have an Eagle crank. I am wondering
if the crank is slightly bigger than stock, or is the hub just a piece
of crap? Has this happened to anyone else? Is the hub okay to use or
should I get another one? If so, from where?

 

How with the hub work withouth the three ears for the pulley to bolt to?

 

I think he is referring to the ASP billet hub. There are 6 holes drilled out in the hub to bolt the stock balancer to. The reason their are 6 holes is accomodate the proper orientation for the balancer.

 

Actually the hub I have has only 3 holes drilled in it. Instead of having three ears, it has a complete circle of that diameter of metal....

 

Well, I'm not familiar with the eagle crank. I doubt it is larger diameter than the stocker. There are a lot of people that run the eagle crank and run a key stock hub. If there was a problem they would have probably said something. I'd put money that the hub is too small. However, as long as metal didn't get into the timing cover and your able to remove and install the hub with ease I wouldn't worry about it. It should be clearanced now anyhow. You might do a search for eagle cranks with keyed hubs and see what you get.

 

>I see that Thunder Racing sell the keyed hubs for the LT1 , but they have 2 different ones ... why ?
what is the difference between the 1994-1995 and 1995-1997 ?

 

The 96-97 is slightly shorter to compensate for the crankshaft position sensor reluctor

Chris

 

Note that the 96-97 hub comes stock with the keyway in it. It's only backward compatible with the 95 through the use of a special keyed washer (like the ones that come with the Fluidampr)

 

>Thanks for the info