Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

Injector change with Powerdyne??

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Old Jan 30, 2003 | 06:28 PM
  #1  
ESRacing's Avatar
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From: Houston,Tx
Injector change with Powerdyne??

I have a 93 Camaro with LT headers, lt4 hot cam, & 2800 stall. Do I need bigger injectors if I was trying to run a powerdyne system??
Old Jan 30, 2003 | 09:28 PM
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Adding any supercharger to a motor that already has a hot cam and I would change the injectors to at least 30 lb'ers. The stock 22 lb. injectors on a '93 will be over taxed when running boost and will be seeing max duty cycle at high RPM. They'll do OK for a while but you never know when they'll give it up. Especially if they are original injectors with a lot of miles on them.

Later ... Larry S.
Old Jan 30, 2003 | 10:34 PM
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Looks like someone has new numbers in their sig. How'd ya do it Larry? Didn't you just recently have like 391 RWHP? Congrats
Old Jan 31, 2003 | 12:59 PM
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If you dont mind me asking, MislMan, what combination of stuff are you running to have over 400 hp?? Those are great numbers!
Old Jan 31, 2003 | 03:25 PM
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Charlie ... I fiddled with the ignition timing and WOT fuel map a little using LT1 edit on the dyno. I added in about 2 degrees of timing above 3000 RPM. Now I have 27 degrees total timing at 5000-6500 RPM. I was being pretty conservative in the past and thought I'd add a little. The A/F ratio is 12.4-12.6 from 2400-6200. I also think the rearend has loosened up a little and may have freed up some power with less frictional loss (it is a Ford 9" as you know) and maybe cooler temperatures helped also.


Engine:
- 355 CI overbore (@10.2:1 compression)
- JE SRP forged pistons
- Forged steel I-beam rods
- GM forged steel crank
- Comp Cams blower cam (Intake - 212, exh - 224 at .050 lift
with 114 LSA, pretty mild cam)
- Comp Cams 1.6 steel roller rockers (7/16 stud size)
- ARP 7/16 rocker studs, guide plates, hardened push rods
- CNC brand Stage 2 LT1 heads (stainless steel valves 2.0 & 1.56
with titanium retainers, double springs)
- Manifold bored for 58mm TB and minor port matching to heads
- 36 lb. SVO injectors
- BBK 58mm TB
- MAC 1 5/8" headers w/ceramic coating (Stock GM manifold
gaskets)
- MAC hi-flo CAT
- Decoma cat-back exhaust
- LGM adjustable fuel pressure regulator
- Moroso Blue Max 8.5 spark plug wires
- ARP bolts throughout assembly with Fel-Pro gaskets
- New Opti, lifters, push rods, motor mounts during rebuild
- EGR delete
- Ed Wright re-programming (FMU delete)
- Powerdyne 6 lb. supercharger with 2.70" SC pulley (9 lb. pulley
for a Mustang)

Transmission & driveline:
- 4L60E hi-po rebuild with extra clutch plates
- New hi-po sprags
- Trans Go shift kit
- Vacuum clutch apply kit
– Currie Enterprises 9” Ford rearend (3.70 gears with 31 spline
axles and Trac-Loc)
- GM aluminum driveshaft


Later ... Larry S.
Old Feb 1, 2003 | 12:05 AM
  #6  
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Cool

Hmmm, funny how you left it constant at 27 from 5 - 6.5 ....I guess whatever works when experimenting. So let me take a wild guess at where the power peak is ......I'm going to say, 6,100 RPM....about right? Does your A/F go leaner or richer as the rev's rise? (mine goes leaner as you probably know, which is why I inquire) Tuner says the A/F actually doesn't need to be as rich above 5252 RPM because the load drops off from that point upward. Mine goes from 12.2 @ 4K to 12.7 @ 5.7K .....worried me at first but he insists it's fine and that it's tuned super rich above that so the motor will fall on it's face via that and really low on timing. (I've hardly even driven the thing the past few months with this wonderful weather)
Old Feb 1, 2003 | 08:56 AM
  #7  
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HP peak is at 5800 (small cam) and torque peak is at 4700. A/FR is about 12.7 at 5800 and above. I have the tranny shift at 5700 and just hit 6000-6100 in the 1/4. Or around there since I really don't take a long look down at the speedo when traveling at that speed. I also have my timing retard table set to take out a max of 3 degrees and then it restores timing almost immediately (as quickly as the table will allow me to set it). This way if it does sense any rattle/detonation it doesn't cut back power for long. My feeling being it is most likely transitional (very short burst knock) and I don't want it slowing me down. If it's real detonation then I'm asking for it and maybe another BOOM. Then I'll build a 396 or simply switch to another car and work on something new (Viper or Z06 since both are fun to drive hard).

Later ... Larry S.
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