so in a FI application how much does stroking the motor really help? do the extra cubes really matter that much?

Why doesn't anyone leave the bores alone to retain cylider wall thickness and let the motor last through more rebuilds?

 

A smaller motor will require more boost to make the same amount of horsepower put out by a stroker.

Also, you don't need to rip into the cylinder walls to have a stroker... My 377 runs quite well.

 

yeah been toying with a 391, but yeah I was just wondering what the moivation was, does stroking really make that big of a difference or not?

 

In a N/A deal it's a big help. With regard to centrifgual blowers, the stroke does offer abit more low speed torque before the boost comes on. For a turbo deal, I like the bigger bore w/ a 3.5" stroke. They all work pretty darn good with the right parts.

 

Most people buy a forged crank when building a high HP motor. Since both stock and longer stroke cranks cost about the same, why not get the stroker crank? It's basically free hp/tq, just some extra clearancing.

 

I realize that most people do it since they are buiying a crank anyways, but in a blown motor I was wondering if there was a reason other than "might as well since it's being bought anyways"

 

I don't know how applicable it is to a boosted motor, but I've heard some people complain about the rod ratio for 383 and 396 motors, and in turn run some more uncommon displacement sizes.

 

I second that.

Centrifugal blown cars build boost linearly with rpm, so any help on low-end is appreciated. Big converters can make up for the soft low-end also, but they aren't too streetable.

Mike

 

also the fact that strking the motor will add to more exhaust flow... hence less turbo lag allowing one to run a bigger turbo (of course this in only for a TURBO charged car) and on a blown car like the others said the added torque would be ideal