Forced Induction Supercharger/Turbocharger

Help me plan my motor

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Old 05-26-2009, 10:52 PM
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Help me plan my motor

Please,

The car: 96 WS6 M6 stock heads with a 3" cat back exaust. (No name anywhere, may be stock but does not look like any other T/As I've seen)

The appication: Saturday night Cruiser. Could go to a track a few times a year on amateur night. Could be pressed into daily driver if needed but that isn't its main purpose any more.

Pieces I have: A 'Gently Used' LT1 383 set up; Crower 4340 Forged CrankShaft had crank magnafluxed no cracks, Forged Crower rods 5700 will need to be reconditioned, Forged SRP pistons 31cc dish.The Crank is a one piece crank designed for a LT1, and everything is internally balanced. Will be worked over by a competent machine shop.

A 'Gently Used' Procharger P600b with the current pully set up for 8-9 psi I also have the 1 piece / U path intercooler (about 3" tube) and some plumbing with it. Sending it to Procharger for a rebuild. Specs say it's engine RPM limit is 6000, Can I take it to 6300 - 6500 or should I build the engine to only 6000 RPM?

I am currently planning on getting head work done on the stock heads by a competent machine shop. What procedures are recommended? Will porting a stock LT1 intake be of benefit?

The car will have to pass emission tests in Texas.

Variables / Options:

I see a few cams that run to 6300-6500 RPM. Never had one and am interested in trying one out. This is not my grandmas car and I'm not afraid of a lope.

I see some Comp Behive springs on Craigslist that I may grab this week. Good / Bad?

I understand I will have to use larger injectors and plan on taking it for a dyno tune as soon as I have it runing steadily.

From what I've read I should be looking at a Walbro 255L fuel pump, AFR Blow off valve, fuel pressure regulator, throttle body, MAF sensor, headers.

Please make suggestions on the variables and let me know if I'm missing any key components.

I am planning on using the stock block that is in the car now.

I understand some will be tempted to suggest I go with an F1 or D1 charger. I must use what I have and build the best motor I can.
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Old 05-26-2009, 10:57 PM
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that 600B isnt gonna flow good enough for a 383, you will be maxing it fast. I wouldnt expect much more the MAYBE 500hp outta it.

I use Pac 1518 valve springs, pricey but good, my motor floated Comp 918s bad. Just from changing the springs the motor picked up 70 RWHP.

Jay
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Old 05-27-2009, 12:14 AM
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Correct me if I'm wrong, but a blower/turbo cam you want a wide LSA on the cam. Only on N/A and N2O do you want a lopey cam with overlap and a tight LSA.
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Old 05-27-2009, 09:05 AM
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I'm here to learn. I've built a dozen stock or near stock motors. This is my first time trying something more advanced.

The cam doesnt have to be lopey, I'm just saying it won't bother me if it is. I'm ok with the car not behaving as stock.

If the P600b will run out of steam I guess I will have to match the cam and heads to it. Any suggestions?

The car does have a stock, street suspension so i think there is an upper limit to useful HP.

Or would you guys suggest just building the 383 and leaving the P600b off?
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Old 05-27-2009, 06:27 PM
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Do you know the peak airflow rate of the P600? I think my old A-trim (small) peaked at 50-55 lbs/min and made 446rwhp on a 350 w/ ported heads & small cam.

You'll need about 65lbs/min to make some hp on a 383.

http://www.forcedinductions.com/consumption383.htm

For reference the TC76 turbo that has a pretty good rep. flows 92lbs/min

If you can find a P600B compressor map that would help. If it can support ~65 than I would consider running it and potentially upgrading later.
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Old 06-01-2009, 10:52 AM
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I may show my ignorance here, please teach me what I'm missing if I do:

The Procharger website doesn't show a lb/min but rather a maximum rating of 1200cfm. and 24psi. They also claim thet the inter cooler reduces the charge temperatute to ambient + 25F. The maximum temps where I plan on driving it are 100F. For unknown varables such as heat sink, etc. I will assume the charge temperature entering the intake will be 140F. My CRC list dry air at 1 atmospere as having a density of .067.

1200 x .067 = 80 lb/min
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Old 06-08-2009, 12:21 PM
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i would not use procharger's website as a reference. Your going to need a D1, p1SC, etc to get 10+ psi out a 383 with worked heads.

the p600b would work well for a stock motor. Not a build 383. I would maybe use it for a while (break in, first 3-5k) and than move up to a bigger compressor.
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Old 06-09-2009, 06:47 PM
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Yeah, without seeing the compressor map you don't know at what efficiency the claimed 1200CFM was recorded. I should have clarified what was meant by 'peak'.

140F sounds about right for heat addition caused by the compressor - then you need to add that to the ambient air temperature to get your discharge temp.

-Scott.
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Old 12-15-2009, 11:28 PM
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Try again

The goals haven't changed but I have added a few pieces. I would appreciate input on the next few parts to be added such as cam. I am convinced the P600 wont flow enough so I will be looking at a blower to match the motor after it is up and running and things such as suspension / rear end are addressed. Im thinking to build it for FI but run it N/A while the rest of the car is made capable then adding a charger.

Engine Block:
LT1 v8 4 bolt mains
Bored .30 over and stroked to a 383
Crower 4340 Forged CrankShaft had crank magnafluxed no cracks 3.75 stroke
Forged Crower rods 5.700
Forged SRP pistons 31cc dish

Heads
AFR heads 195cc pre06' Stamped with 64cc
Valves 2.00 and 1.60
ARP head stud kit
ARP stud girdle
AFR hyra rev kit
Induction
stock lt1 intake
Walbro 255L fuel pump

I know these are the older AFR heads, will they benefit greatly from a port job by LE or AI? Can I just have them match up the LT1 intake or should I be looking for a LT4 / Edledollar intake?

I'm calculating a SCR of about 8.25 with these 64cc heads, is that too low for LT motor without boost? The guy I got the Stroker kit from complained that it didn't make any power & that is why he sold it. I suspect the CR is too low without FI. Could I advance whatever cam I end up with while it is N/A to gain a little DCR & set it back When I get a blower? Or is that a waste of time?

These heads have been setting assembled on a shelf for 5 years, never ran, are the springs still good?
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Old 12-27-2009, 08:45 PM
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I ran a p600b w/ a 383ci LT1 in a 97ss MM6 3.73:1 gear. I could not run the smallest pulley due to belt track problems and arc contact on the driven pulley. The P600B has a very small input shaft size and the single key is real small. I rolled it once.

It ran good w/ 42" High Impedance injectors and my own PCM flash. I also ran AFR 190 heads w/ 54cc chambers on a forged assembly w/ JE -28cc pistons (9.5:1 compression).

The cam was a Crane 1040 powermax w/ 218* single pattern .498 lift 116lsa. A real nice idle, and the cam would pull to 7k rpm. A real screamer. One of my fav-o-rites. I passed emmisions in Ohio. The key to high flow is low friction on intake and exhaust side of the heads. I did alot of my own plumbing from the intake thru the intercooler. Remember, high manifold psi is a result of low flow ability.

I have moved on to an ATI D1 w/ a 3.4" driven pulley and a large spearco with lots of extra mods. Note... I also broke the 7 1/2" gm gear (Moser now).

I say go for it and have fun.

I hope this helps. B
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Old 01-09-2010, 11:51 PM
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i ran a P600b on an almost identical engine combo and it worked pretty well. Go for it.. if thats all you have then just run it. Mine was trapping at 120mph in the heat with a cam that was not ideal (just a 230/236 .510/.520 on a 112, and a tune that was off (had been tuned for a much smaller blower cam) and last but not least i was on a back up 2.73 rear with the 6 speed. Would it have been alot better with a bigger blower? hell yes but it did work well. Just run it and if the opportunity presents itself in the future then step it up but you wont be dissapointed i dont think. One of the biggest problems you will have is high IAT's cause you will have to spin it so hard. I had mine pulled down alot and you will need to as well so make sure you run a 12 rib set up.. nothing else will do. I was getting about 8-9psi normaly and maybe 10-12 in optimum weather

Last edited by 30thTA0525; 01-20-2010 at 02:00 AM.
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Old 01-19-2010, 10:22 PM
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Ok guys, Thanks for the input, I'm going to go build it and will report back in a few month how it turns out.
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